For many British travellers, Tenerife represents a reliable source of winter sunshine and beachside relaxation. However, a recent visit reveals the largest Canary Island possesses a dramatic, otherworldly landscape and a deep cultural history that extends far beyond the poolside.
A Lunar Landscape in the Canaries
Walking through the San Blas Environmental Reserve feels akin to stepping onto a film set for a sci-fi epic. The terrain, dominated by giant sandstone-coloured volcanic rock formations, offers a stark contrast to the typical coastal image of Tenerife. This 500,000 square metre protected space showcases the island's violent geological birth, from dark basalt born of ancient lava flows to immense beige cliffs sculpted by wind over millennia.
Local guide Arturo led a moderate hike through this reserve, pointing out resilient flora like the thick-stemmed cardon cactus and the tabaiba shrub, which stores a milky sap to survive the heat. The journey culminated in a breathtaking canyon, a sheer-walled lunar landscape that suddenly gave way to a surprising reservoir, lush with palm trees.
History, Culture and a Grand Volcano
The experience connected the natural world with human history. At the reservoir, the group crossed via a small wooden boat to explore caves once inhabited by the Guanches, Tenerife's indigenous people. In a preserved open-air neolithic temple, Arturo recited an ancient prayer, highlighting a rich and often tragic history of colonial occupation.
Dominating the horizon throughout is Mount Teide. Arturo referred to the volcano as "our Buckingham Palace." Standing at over 3,000 metres, it is the third tallest volcano in the world and last erupted in 1909. While a tough trek to the summit wasn't possible, Arturo recommended the cable car for future visitors seeking those majestic views.
Luxury Lodgings with a Story to Tell
The beauty of the five-star Barceló Tenerife hotel is its seamless integration into this unique environment. Its terracotta walls and open-plan walkways blend perfectly with the surrounding reserve. The resort offers an unexpected highlight: an underground museum and interpretation centre.
This immersive experience uses dark rooms and even a rocking floor to narrate the island's formation, its first inhabitants, and subsequent settler invasions. It underscores how Tenerife's identity is shaped by both fire and human resilience.
After a day of exploration, the resort caters to classic holiday comforts. Guests can choose from seven pools, including a heated option, or enjoy activities like kayaking. Dining options range from authentic Spanish seafood paella to Italian culinary delights at La Dolce Vita restaurant.
The visit demonstrated that Tenerife successfully marries rugged adventure with refined relaxation. The island invites travellers to look up from their sun loungers and discover a landscape forged by volcanoes, and a history as compelling as its views.
How to visit the San Blas Reserve: Guest prices for a guided tour and access to the Interpretation Centre are €15 for adults and €8 for children. For non-guests, tickets cost €22.50 for adults and €14.50 for children.
Where to stay: Barceló Tenerife is a 10-minute drive from Tenerife South airport. Standard room rates range from €220 to €520 per night, including breakfast. Royal Level rates, offering a "hotel within a hotel" experience, range from €330 to €620.
