It is time for my annual reminder that British asparagus is now in season, and you should be consuming as much of it as possible between now and the end of May. I may appear repetitive, but asparagus season never fails to excite me for several reasons. First, we genuinely grow the finest asparagus in the world, hand-harvested at its peak. Second, the season is fleeting, lasting approximately eight weeks; any asparagus outside this window will either be imported or not taste its best. Third, its arrival signals the beginning of a glorious run of homegrown produce — more on Jersey Royals and watercress next month!
I fully agree with Delia Smith, who suggests there is little need for elaborate recipes when it comes to asparagus. The grassy spears are best simply cooked (simmered or steamed) and served with a sauce for dipping or spooning over the spears. Hollandaise is classic, as is a lemony mayonnaise or mustardy vinaigrette. I am partial to this caper butter — the salty little capers fried until crisp and enlivened with a jolt of lemon juice. It makes a pleasing side dish to grilled chicken or fish, or a fabulous light lunch with fried eggs and toasted sourdough.
Ingredients
- About 500g asparagus, £4.60
- 100g unsalted butter, £1.99
- 1 lemon, 35p
- 4 tbsp nonpareille capers, £1.85
Method
Trim the woody ends off the asparagus. Add the stems to a large pan of boiling, salted water and simmer for 2-3 minutes, depending on their thickness — more slender stems do not need much more than 1-2 minutes of cooking. Drain and arrange on a platter.
Heat a large frying pan over medium-high heat. Add the butter and the capers and fry for 4-5 minutes, or until the butter is nutty and golden and the capers have darkened and crisped up a little. Grind in some black pepper and squeeze in the juice of half the lemon. Spoon over the asparagus.
Cut the remaining lemon half into wedges. Squeeze over the asparagus and serve immediately.
