Despite numerous trips to destinations across the UK, the popular town of Aberystwyth has somehow eluded me and my family. Its position on the western coastline and situated almost precisely midway between north and south Wales means it is not the most accessible spot for a day excursion for most. That is not to suggest it lacks appeal among holidaymakers. It is frequently dubbed the 'culture capital' of Wales and is among its most-visited locations. It also has the nation's oldest pier, dating back to 1865.
A Town of Unique Attractions
Now a truncated version of its original expanse, the Royal Pier is currently promoted as 'a one stop destination for food, drinks, socialising and family fun', featuring an arcade, a pub, a chippy, a nightclub and more. Adjacent to one side of the pier stands Aberystwyth Castle, a Grade I listed Edwardian fortress constructed in the late 13th century. However, it was the attraction at the northern extremity of the promenade that captured our interest: the extraordinary Aberystwyth Cliff Railway.
The Cliff Railway Experience
Britain's longest electric funicular cliff railway, it has been conveying guests to the peak of Constitution Hill since launching in 1896 and ran on a water balance mechanism until electrification in 1921. The carriages are drawn to the summit at merely 4mph, driven by a motor and steel cables. The leisurely speed ensures you have ample opportunity to absorb the magnificent landscape beneath, with breathtaking vistas of the town, Cardigan Bay and, on a clear day, 26 mountain peaks stretching across much of Wales's territory.
Summit Entertainment
There is plenty to keep visitors entertained at the summit too, including a compact crazy golf course, frisbee golf, a games room boasting pool, air hockey and ten-pin bowling, as well as one of the world's largest camera obscuras, providing a live aerial view across 1,000 square miles of land and coastline below. Having paid £1 each, we were not treated to much of a spectacle, though we were assured the vista is far more impressive on a brighter day.
A small gift shop and several historical displays chronicle the hill's fascinating past, when it was formerly known as Luna Park — a Victorian forerunner to the modern theme park — and once boasted a helter skelter and an early incarnation of the roller coaster, dubbed the 'switchback railway'. There is also the well-regarded Consti café, serving up meals, snacks and beverages, and even sporting its own pick 'n' mix stand.
Fish and Chips by the Sea
Reserving our appetites for fish and chips, we settled for a coffee and a cider, and the weather was mild enough to enjoy the covered outdoor seating area. While walking back down remains an option, a return ticket costs just £1 more (adults £8, children £7), so we opted for the effortless route, securing a spot at the front of the carriage for an unobstructed view. Dogs are permitted in the carriages, though one whimpering pooch in our carriage appeared decidedly unimpressed with the journey.
Back on solid ground, we had ample opportunity to discover more of the town, which has earned accolades for both its beaches, frequently celebrated for their strikingly clear turquoise waters. While some visitors were courageous enough to take a swim, we cooled down with ice cream sundaes from Prom Diner, a well-loved spot along the seafront serving Italian-inspired luxury Welsh ice cream Mario's.
Independent Shops and More
Also situated along the main promenade, which is flanked by charming pastel-coloured buildings, is The Original Tram Company, doing a brisk trade offering the likes of crepes, waffles, donuts and drinks. Set further back from the waterfront are rows of shops boasting some independent gems, including the delightful Bookshop By The Sea and no fewer than three outlets from independent clothing brand Polly, which was established in the town over 30 years ago.
The quintessential seaside atmosphere fades as you venture away from the seafront, where familiar high street names such as Betfred, Savers and JD, alongside banks and mobile phone shops, begin to dominate.
A Perfect End to the Day
With a swift change of direction, it was finally time for our much-anticipated chippy tea, and we made our way back to the Royal Pier. Tempting as it was to enjoy 'a chipnic on the pier' — where an abundance of picnic-style tables offer truly spectacular views — it proved far too windy for that, so we opted to grab our food and go. Much as I relish a coastal backdrop while tucking into fish and chips, I must confess that with a considerable number of seagulls swooping overhead, we thought it wiser to retreat to the car and enjoy our meal in peace.
It felt somewhat peculiar to be charged 25p for a tray to eat them from. Without one, navigating the generous helpings of sauce and gravy we had ordered would have proved rather tricky. Nevertheless, the food itself was absolutely delicious, and our impromptu 'chipnic in the car' proved to be the ideal conclusion to a thoroughly enjoyable day out.
