The humble fishcake, a classic marriage of fish and potato, has been elevated to new heights by chefs and home cooks alike. But what makes the perfect one? A recent exploration of various recipes reveals key insights into achieving that ideal balance of flavour and texture.
Choice of fish is paramount. While cod and haddock are traditional, Simon Hopkinson and Lindsay Bareham note in The Prawn Cocktail Years that cod is now more expensive than farmed salmon. They find a 100% salmon version heavy, whereas Hugh Fearnley-Whittingstall and Nick Fisher's smoked mackerel variant can be greasy and salty. A combination of fish, such as cod with a touch of smoked haddock, seems to offer the best of both worlds.
The potato base is equally critical. Waxy new potatoes are too dense; a fluffy mash is essential. Hopkinson and Bareham crush their potatoes with a fork for a chunkier texture, while others advocate for a smooth mash dried out in the pan. The binding agent also matters: beaten egg proves far superior to melted butter for holding the cakes together, and cream and egg yolk can make the mix too damp and dull flavours.
Ultimately, the perfect fishcake is a thrifty yet luxurious dish that balances fresh fish, fluffy potato, and a simple binding. Whether you opt for cod, haddock, or a mix, attention to texture and moisture is key to avoiding a dry or greasy result.
