XO sauce, the luxurious umami condiment from Hong Kong, is more versatile than many realise. According to Fuchsia Dunlop, author of Invitation to a Banquet, it can be eaten straight from the jar, though that feels extravagant. The sauce, invented in the mid-1980s at Spring Moon restaurant in Hong Kong's Peninsula Hotel, traditionally contains dried shrimp, dried scallop, and preserved ham, along with chillies and alliums.
Jenny Lau, author of An A-Z of Chinese Food, explains that XO sauce is used both in cooking and as a table condiment. It works brilliantly with plain rice, where its chewy texture and savoury scallop flavour shine, and in stir-fried noodles or vegetables. Dunlop recommends it with king oyster mushrooms, while Lau suggests it adds depth to bland dishes like white meat or fish.
Eggs are a particular highlight: poached, fried, or boiled all benefit from a spoonful. Buttered crumpets also make an excellent vehicle, as the sauce sits on top and its flavour is pronounced. For sandwiches, Lau recommends swapping sriracha for XO sauce in mayonnaise, or blending it with peanut butter, water, soy sauce, and vinegar for a dressing akin to pesto.
Storage is straightforward: as long as the sauce is submerged in oil, it keeps well. So there's no rush to finish a jar, but with rice, eggs, and crumpets on hand, it won't last long.
