Historic Fashion Collection Reborn After Half-Century Recovery Effort
A devastating firebomb attack at Malone House in Belfast during 1976 completely destroyed the Ulster Museum's entire costume and textile collection, representing a profound cultural loss for Northern Ireland. However, after five decades of painstaking work, the museum has announced the remarkable rebirth of this important collection through a major new exhibition titled Ashes to Fashion.
From Ashes to Cultural Renaissance
The 1976 blaze, caused by two fire bombs, affected approximately 10,000 items in the original collection, with garments suffering damage from flames, smoke, heat, and water. Charlotte McReynolds, curator of art at National Museums NI, described the incident as representing profound cultural loss for curators, conservators, and the wider museum team.
"Now, 50 years on, it has become an opportunity to reflect on our resilience," McReynolds explained. "The exhibition traces the journey from disaster to recovery, revealing the meticulous work undertaken by a succession of curators, beginning with Elizabeth McCrum, to rebuild a new collection from scratch."
Highlights of the Reborn Collection
The exhibition will feature 120 objects that showcase five centuries of historic and contemporary garments and textiles, rebuilt through thoughtful curation, acquisitions, donations, and bequests. Among the most significant items is the Lennox Quilt, the only surviving piece from the original collection.
Measuring six feet by six feet and entirely handstitched, this remarkable quilt was created in 1712 by Martha Lennox, daughter of John Hamilton, one of Belfast's first sovereigns or mayors. The quilt escaped destruction because it was on display at the museum at the time of the fire, having been purchased at auction by the Ulster Museum in March 1976.
Other notable pieces include:
- A rare stumpwork embroidery casket from the 1660s, donated to the museum in 2025 by renowned needlework expert Lanto Synge
- Silk gowns from the 18th century juxtaposed with modern pieces including a Chanel Haute Couture suit worn by supermodel Christy Turlington
- Works by international and local designers being displayed for the first time, including items from Northern Ireland-born Jonathan Anderson, Elie Saab, Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen, Rodarte, Christopher Kane, and Kindred of Ireland
Transforming Perceptions of Museums
Kathryn Thomson, chief executive of National Museums NI, emphasized that the exhibition represents an opportunity to transform people's perceptions of museums. "Ashes to Fashion is an honest and powerful response to a devastating moment in our history," she stated.
"It acknowledges what was lost, whilst celebrating the extraordinary expertise involved in rebuilding it. It demonstrates how creativity and resilience can emerge from even the most devastating circumstances."
Thomson added that at the heart of the exhibition is a commitment to transparency and reflection, with visitors receiving rare insight into the behind-the-scenes realities of museum collecting and conservation. "Resilience and constant renewal are markers of the fashion world, and now also of the Ulster Museum's own reborn fashion collection," she noted.
Educational Opportunities and Public Engagement
While the exhibition runs, various public talks and workshops in partnership with Ulster University will take place, allowing students, designers, and the public to connect with Ashes to Fashion beyond the gallery setting. This represents the museum's first major fashion exhibition in 15 years, with organizers expressing pride in presenting this cultural moment for the south Belfast museum, Northern Ireland, and the fashion world.
McReynolds concluded: "Ashes to Fashion reframes fashion. It positions textiles as significant cultural objects that carry stories, emotions and history, which can be both fragile and enduring."
The Ashes to Fashion exhibition will open at the Ulster Museum on February 27, 2026, revealing 50 years of dedicated collecting and highlighting the expertise and resilience involved in rebuilding a collection from complete destruction.
