Despite my many visits to places all over Wales, for some reason the popular town of Aberystwyth has escaped me and my family. Its location on the west coast of Wales, almost at the exact mid-point between north and south, makes it not the closest place for a day trip for most people.
That is not to say it goes unnoticed by tourists. Often referred to as the 'culture capital' of Cymru, the town is one of the most-visited places in Wales and home to the country's oldest pier, which opened in 1865. Now a shortened version of its original length, the Royal Pier is billed as 'a one stop destination for food, drinks, socialising and family fun', with an arcade, a pub, a chippy, a nightclub and more.
Aberystwyth Castle and the Remarkable Cliff Railway
On one side of the pier sits Aberystwyth Castle, a Grade I listed Edwardian fortress built in the late 13th century. But it was the attraction on the northern end of the promenade that grabbed our attention: the remarkable Aberystwyth Cliff Railway. The longest electric funicular cliff railway in Britain, it has been transporting visitors to the summit of Constitution Hill since opening in 1896 and operated on a water balance system until electrification in 1921.
The carriages are hauled to the summit at just 4mph, powered by a motor and steel cables. The slow pace means you have plenty of time to take in the stunning landscape below, with spectacular views of the town, Cardigan Bay and, on a clear day, 26 mountain peaks spanning much of the length of Wales.
Things to Do at the Summit
It is not just a trip up and down, as there are things to do at the top of the hill, including a small crazy golf course, frisbee golf, a games room with pool, air hockey and 10-pin bowling, and one of the world's largest camera obscuras, which offers a live bird's eye view of 1,000 square miles of land and seascape below. After paying £1 each we did not get to see much but were told the view is better on a clearer day.
There is a small gift shop and some historical displays charting the history of the hill, which was once known as Luna Park (a Victorian predecessor to modern theme parks) and featured a helter skelter and an early form of roller coaster known as 'switchback railway'. There is also a popular Consti cafe selling meals, snacks and drinks, complete with its own pick 'n' mix stand.
A Relaxing Break and the Return Journey
Saving ourselves for fish and chips, we enjoyed a coffee and a cider, and it was warm enough to sit in the covered outdoor seating area. You can walk back down if you want, but it is only £1 more to get a return ticket (adults £8, children £7), so we took the easy option and got a standing spot in the front of the carriage for an unobstructed view. Dogs are allowed in the carriages, but the whimpering dog in our carriage did not seem too keen on the experience.
Exploring the Town and Its Beaches
Back down, we had time to explore more of the town, which has won awards for both of its beaches, often praised for their crystal clear turquoise waters. While some visitors were brave enough to take a dip, we kept cool with some ice cream sundaes from Prom Diner, a popular spot along the front selling Italian-inspired luxury Welsh ice cream Mario's.
Also on the main promenade, which is lined with colourful pastel coloured buildings, is The Original Tram Company, doing a roaring trade selling crepes, waffles, donuts and drinks. Set back from the front are rows of shops with some independent delights, including the cute Bookshop By The Sea and no less than three shops from independent clothing brand Polly, established more than 30 years ago in the town. The seaside town vibe dwindles as you move away from the seafront, with big names like Betfred, Savers and JD, along with banks and mobile phone shops taking over.
The Long-Awaited Fish and Chips
With an about-turn, it was time for our long-awaited chippy tea, and we headed back to the Royal Pier. As inviting as it sounded to enjoy 'a chipnic on the pier' — where there are loads of picnic style tables offering more breath-taking views — it was a little too blustery for that, so we chose to grab and go. As much as I love a coastal view while tucking into fish and chips, I have to admit that with so many seagulls circling ahead, we decided to retreat to the car to enjoy ours in peace.
It seemed a little odd to be charged 25p for a tray to eat them from. I am not sure we would have managed without them given the sauce and gravy we had bought to pour on them. That said, the food was delicious, and our 'chipnic in the car' was the perfect ending to a fun-packed day.
