Faro airport is no stranger to British tourists seeking the sun-drenched delights of the Algarve. However, the historic Faro Old Town is often bypassed in favor of all-inclusive resorts along the coast. Opting out of the typical holiday experience, I booked a one-night round trip for just £80 to explore what feels like one of Portugal's most underappreciated treasures. And I was pleasantly surprised.
Rather than following a convoy of minibuses emblazoned with resort names that have sprouted across the Algarve coastline, I took a €4 (£4.61) Uber directly to the beach. Cheap, but hardly surprising when the journey from the airport to the beach takes only five minutes. Feeling well-prepared, having changed into my bikini and applied a generous layer of SPF50 on the flight, I was ready to maximize my 24-hour holiday.
Somehow, I breezed through border control, into the car, and had a pint in hand within minutes. I happily settled into the sands of Praia de Faro, with the scent of runway tarmac still lingering. I threw down my towel, precariously positioned my under-seat rucksack as a pillow, and sipped on a €2.50 (£2.17) pint of Sagres from one of the trendy bars and terraced restaurants dotting the beach.
While I wasn't alone in my approach, I enjoyed the 30°C heat, cheap drinks, consistent waves, and the ease of reaching this idyllic spot without it being overcrowded. Just a few miles down the road, the same couldn't be said. 'What a slice of heaven,' I muttered to my friends. And then, as if by manifestation, a man carrying a cooler box on his shoulder paused in front of us. 'Want to try?' he asked, pulling out a Malassada (or Bolas de Berlim) – a golden brown Portuguese fried doughnut covered in sugar and filled with custard – and kindly gave one to our group. We picked at it like gluttonous pigeons.
But it was time to consume something other than free doughnuts and cheap beach bar drinks. Sporting a slightly redder complexion than when I started at Stansted early that morning, I found respite at Faro Central Holiday Apartments, which features a sun terrace perfect for after-beach crisp consumption. Tucked away a few minutes' walk into the heart of Old Town, the location is perfectly convenient. I noticed this is a recurring theme in Faro Old Town, known locally as Cidade Velha – small enough to feel intimate and easy, yet large enough not to feel claustrophobic.
After indulging in a selection of European supermarket crisps, I was lured outside by the gorgeous medieval architecture, cobbled streets, abundant greenery in public squares, and pastel buildings drenched in persistent sun. Yet, of course, the sun had to set – and I was glad it did. Finding myself at the beautiful Faro marina during golden hour was like stepping into a postcard. Boats sat dormant as the sun crept toward the horizon, palm trees stood tall while locals gathered for al fresco wine and tapas by the harbor.
This only left me – and my stomach – yearning for more of Faro. Before feasting on what lay beyond the medieval walls, I watched the last orange hue fade from a small pier tucked across the coastal rail line, left of the marina. My friends and I were joined by a handful of others – couples, small groups, and solo sunset lovers. It was a far cry from watching the sunset amidst overtourism down the road, though I was frequently reminded of it by the constant stream of planes overhead.
Now that my eyes had feasted, it was time to feed the rest of me. I passed through the ancient Gate of Rest, or Arco do Repouso, one of Faro's oldest monuments, believed to have been built as early as the 12th century. Weaving through streets decorated with street art and graffiti, I found myself at the Old Tavern, which promised traditional Portuguese cuisine. Sporadically placed tables covered with red and white gingham cloth provided just enough space for the excellent tapas advertised on the chalkboard I had to lean toward to order.
Spicy sausage that came alight, like the foodie version of a VIP club bottle of vodka, octopus salad, and golden prawns went down nicely with a glass of sangria. And later, a sip of port – when in Rome, right? After a short walk back to the apartment, a long sleep, and a brief acquaintance with a pastel de nata from one of the many bakeries below, the next day arrived.
Although I had to leave my one-night trip to Faro, I managed a quick visit to the Bone Chapel, or Capela dos Ossos, where over 1,200 monk skeletons are meticulously displayed. Slightly creeped out and reminded of life's inevitability, I decided to make the most of my 24-hour holiday. Back to the bliss of Praia de Faro until my 8 p.m. flight.
Not wanting my holiday to end, I took some of it with me – literally. With slightly damp hair, I took a £3 bus ride to Faro airport straight from the beach. I clutched onto my holiday as grains of sand clung to my skin, entering the chaos of one of Portugal's busiest airports. Faro Old Town wields the authenticity of the Algarve without the fierce commercial coating that much of the region has succumbed to. It's a juxtaposition of a destination, indeed. Unpolished, with some pastel buildings marred by graffiti, it only adds to the appeal – it feels lived in. A little rough around the edges? Perhaps. A hidden gem of the Algarve? Absolutely.
Travel Facts
Layla stayed at Faro Central Holiday Apartments. One-bedroom apartments start at £159 per night and sleep four. Return flights to Faro Airport from London Gatwick start at £26 with Wizz Air.
