As the festive season approaches, London chef Matthew Ryle of Maison François and Cafe François shares his exquisite French-inspired Christmas menu that promises to elevate your holiday dining experience. Rooted in traditional French gastronomy, this collection of recipes brings the sophistication of Parisian cooking to British Christmas tables.
The Festive French Centrepiece
At the heart of this magnificent Christmas spread sits roast capon with chestnuts, a classic French combination that showcases why our continental neighbours excel at festive cooking. The capon, weighing between 3-3.5kg, is prized in France for its exceptionally tender and flavourful meat, making it the bird of choice for special occasions.
The preparation begins the day before serving, with the chef recommending generous seasoning inside the bird's cavity before adding a whole black truffle along with the liver and gizzard. After trussing securely, the capon requires approximately two and a half hours roasting at 160C (140C fan), with regular basting to achieve that perfect golden skin.
Accompaniments That Steal the Show
No French Christmas feast would be complete without pommes Anna, the legendary layered potato dish that demands patience and precision. Using Maris Piper potatoes sliced to just 1mm thickness, this recipe requires clarified butter and careful layering before initial baking for ninety minutes.
The potatoes then spend overnight in the refrigerator to set properly before their final transformation - a twenty to thirty minute blast in a hot 220C (200C fan) oven creates that signature crisp, golden exterior that makes pommes Anna so unforgettable.
The chestnut component brings rustic elegance to the plate, with 1.5kg fresh chestnuts requiring careful preparation. After slitting and boiling, they're peeled while warm before being simmered in chicken stock with celery for twenty minutes. The final touch sees them joining the capon in the roasting pan for the last five minutes of cooking to absorb those precious meat juices.
The Unforgettable Cheese Soufflé
Matthew Ryle's twice-baked comté soufflé with cheesy leek sauce demonstrates why French cooking remains the global gold standard for elegance. This sophisticated starter can be prepared in advance, making it surprisingly practical for busy Christmas entertaining.
The soufflé base combines a classic béchamel with nutmeg, comté cheese, egg yolks, cream and Dijon mustard, while the accompanying sauce features leek, garlic, cream and Camembert for extra depth. After initial baking, the soufflés can wait at room temperature until you're ready for the final gratinating - just five minutes in a very hot 240C (220C fan) oven transforms them into puffed, golden masterpieces.
Chef Ryle suggests serving the soufflé with a crisp green salad dressed with a mustard and white wine vinegar dressing, creating the perfect light beginning to a rich festive meal.
Bringing It All Together
The final presentation sees the capon carved at the table, with the sliced truffle and diced liver and gizzards scattered over the chestnuts. The pommes Anna, cut into elegant wedges, provides the buttery, crisp counterpart to the tender bird, while a simple pan deglazing with water or stock creates an instant sauce that captures all the roasting flavours.
This magnificent Christmas menu serves eight people generously and embodies the French approach to festive cooking - sophisticated yet rooted in tradition, impressive yet achievable for dedicated home cooks. As Matthew Ryle demonstrates, sometimes the best Christmas inspiration comes from just across the Channel.
