Prada Designers Address Inequality and AI as Fashion's Greatest Challenges
During Milan Fashion Week, Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, the co-designers of Prada, spoke backstage about the most significant challenges facing the fashion industry today. They identified inequality and artificial intelligence as key issues, offering a thought-provoking perspective on the sector's future.
A Diplomatic Approach to Political Statements
Miuccia Prada reflected on the diplomatic demands of her role, noting, "We are a company that makes expensive clothes for rich people. So I try to be political, but I can't be obvious." This statement underscores the delicate balance luxury brands must maintain when addressing social and political themes.
Interestingly, Mark Zuckerberg, the billionaire owner of Meta, and his wife, Priscilla Chan, were seated in the front row next to Lorenzo Bertelli, Prada's husband. Reports suggest that Meta is collaborating with Prada on developing "smart glasses" with integrated camera, processing, and voice assistant functions, highlighting the intersection of fashion and technology.
Democratic Dressing and Subtle References
Raf Simons described the Prada show as "about life, and how you dress each day with the clothes you have." He emphasized a focus on real, human people, with the collection featuring 15 women each walking four times in slightly different versions of the same outfit. This approach aimed to create a relatable vibe, with boxy jackets, knee-length skirts, socks with kitten heels, and grey paired with jewel colours.
Simons also mentioned that the colourful scarf worn by the first model was a reference to the Pride flag, acknowledging LGBTQ+ rights amid rising conservatism in politics. However, the design duo largely confined their post-show remarks to expansive but inoffensive topics like democratic dressing and clothes without hierarchy.
Female Leadership in Milan Fashion
Milan currently stands out as a beacon of female leadership in fashion. Miuccia Prada's influential taste has shaped style for decades, and her presence looms larger than ever. Recently, Prada acquired the house of Versace for $1.4 billion, with Miuccia Prada taking a keen interest in its future. She is close to Donatella Versace, who has transitioned to chief brand ambassador, and personally phoned incoming designer Pieter Mulier to offer him the role.
Other notable debuts include Maria Grazia Chiuri at Fendi and Meryll Rogge at Marni. The Emporio Armani show featured a catwalk bow by Silvana Armani, niece of the late designer Giorgio, marking a significant moment for the brand.
Armani's Subtle Transition and Future Changes
The Emporio Armani show provided the first glimpse of the brand's direction following Giorgio Armani's death last year. Under his succession plan, womenswear is now overseen by his niece Silvana, while menswear has passed to Leo Dell'Orco, his life partner and right-hand man. This transition is described as subtle and understated, with both designers having been at the heart of the Armani studio for four decades.
Silvana Armani expressed a desire to maintain "deeply rooted values" while bringing a female perspective, noting that her uncle often added embellishments to make outfits feel more feminine. This season, fewer jangly earrings and dinky hats were featured. The collection was based on Armani's signature tailoring, with draping and wrap silhouettes borrowed from Japanese construction to soften traditional Italian lines.
Change is on the horizon for Armani, as the designer's will stipulates a sale of 15% of the company within 18 months of his death, which may bring new creative input. Until then, Silvana Armani and Leo Dell'Orco are prioritizing continuity.
Max Mara's Timeless Inspiration
At Max Mara, designer Ian Griffiths drew inspiration from Sutton Hoo, an Anglo-Saxon burial site near his Suffolk home. He reflected on "objects which get more beautiful with time," likening Max Mara coats to lifelong companions that age gracefully. The collection featured plush, generous coats as the central storyline, complemented by over-the-knee boots, falconer gloves, suede, and minimal modern hardware, adding medieval plot points to the modern aesthetic.
