Discovering the Untamed Landscapes of Wuthering Heights in Yorkshire
Thick, clinging mud tugs at my boots with every step, while stubborn burdock seed pods refuse to release their grip on my jacket, no matter how vigorously I shake. This immersive experience unfolds during a winter walking holiday in the Yorkshire Dales, where the raw, untamed essence of Emily Brontë's Wuthering Heights feels palpably present across the dramatic moorland.
The Allure of the Unknown Dales
On the inaugural day of a four-night itinerary with HF Holidays, our guide Richard leads our small group of eight through Malhamdale in the southern region. Here, mysterious bubbling springs emerge unexpectedly from the earth at Aire Head. For decades, the source of this water remained an enigma until its origin was traced three miles away to Malham Tarn. The extensive, largely unexplored network of cave systems lying beneath the Dales adds a profound layer of intrigue to this national park, enhancing its mystical appeal.
This very wildness attracted location scouts for Emerald Fennell's cinematic adaptation of Wuthering Heights, which premieres on Friday, 13 February. Rather than selecting the Brontës' hometown of Haworth in West Yorkshire or the iconic Top Withens farmhouse—often cited as Emily's inspiration—the production team opted for the stark limestone valleys of Arkengarthdale and Swaledale. These northernmost dales provided the perfect backdrop for the story's brooding atmosphere.
Venturing into the Filming Locations
While audiences will undoubtedly focus on Margot Robbie and Jacob Elordi's provocative portrayals of Cathy and Heathcliff, the Yorkshire landscape itself promises to command significant attention. On my second day, I depart from the group to personally investigate the filming sites I had researched. A forty-mile drive brings me to Reeth, a picturesque village with cobblestone streets that served as a base camp for the production crew. A local resident remarks, "The scouts sought somewhere truly wild, and there's nowhere in the dales more untamed than Arkengarthdale."
Merely eight minutes later, in the village of Langthwaite, I ascend a steep hill behind The Red Lion Inn. Turning onto a bridleway that traverses Booze Moor—where several remote moorland scenes were shot—I immediately understand the local's assertion. Although clear days offer spectacular vistas, a heavy mist envelops the area during my visit. A delicate dusting of snow crowns the scrubby heather and a crumbling drystone wall. I imagine this exact weather was desired during filming last March; however, unseasonably warm temperatures necessitated smoke machines to achieve the requisite moody ambiance.
Historic Sites and Cinematic Atmosphere
Feeling thoroughly "nithered"—Yorkshire dialect for shivering with cold—I retreat to my car. My next destination is Surrender Bridge and the Old Gang Smelting Mill, the most recognizable location from the film. Constructed around 1846, this site processed lead ore using water power and peat fuel before falling into disrepair after operations ceased between 1899 and 1903.
Accessing the site via a twenty-minute bridleway, the gloom is so dense that visibility extends only a few metres. The sound of running water echoes to my left, while the distinctive barking cries of red grouse resonate to my right. When two shadows materialize ahead, I must reassure myself they are not the spectral forms of Cathy and Heathcliff before they resolve into a pair of hikers clad in waterproof gear.
The mill's imposing chimney towers over the derelict main building, which once housed a wheelhouse and multiple hearths. As a scheduled ancient monument, visitors are encouraged to explore the surroundings without touching or climbing the ruins. Wandering through the abandoned rooms, I sense the palpable history embedded within the stone.
Community Enthusiasm and Celebrity Encounters
Sarah Whiteley, senior historic environment officer at the Yorkshire Dales National Park Authority, who was present during filming, recalls, "Everyone demonstrated tremendous enthusiasm and commitment to executing the project excellently. The cast were all exceptionally pleasant, with absolutely no diva behaviour whatsoever!"
This sentiment is universally echoed by locals. The consensus indicates that the cast and crew were a delightful presence, igniting excitement within the close-knit communities. One resident reflects, "It was wonderful witnessing horses and carts traversing the roads, exactly as they would have historically." However, some props elicited amused reactions. "They installed metal trees atop the moors. Trees could never survive there—they'd be blown over within minutes!" In the nearby village of Low Row, Margot Robbie was spotted enjoying lunch at the cosy Punch Bowl Inn, thrilling a young girl who exclaimed, "It's Barbie!"
Accommodating the Stars and Anticipating Tourism
My final stop is Simonstone Hall, a stylish hotel dating from the 1600s where the stars resided. Owner Jake Dinsdale shares, "Hosting them was delightful, as they utilized the property precisely as intended—a grand country house. I'm thrilled the film will showcase a different facet of the Yorkshire Dales. It's equally magnificent on a dark, moody day as on a sunny one."
HF Holidays, which organized my walking trip, shares this perspective. Wendy Turner, the company's head of UK product, states, "While it's premature to predict definitively, we anticipate a surge in demand for our Yorkshire Dales walking holidays following the film's release. Cinema powerfully evokes on-screen locations, often inspiring viewers to experience them personally."
The Enduring Wildness of Yorkshire
Rejoining my group for the final day, we pause to marvel at Gaping Gill's colossal entrance—a 110-metre cavern leading to a three-mile network of perilous tunnels. Dubbed the "upside down Everest" for defying explorers, it was finally navigated by two cavers in eighteen hours during 1983.
This encapsulates the Yorkshire Dales: brimming with intrigue and an indomitable wildness. Regardless of the cast in any Wuthering Heights adaptation, the enchanting landscape invariably emerges as the true star, captivating audiences with its timeless, untamed beauty.
