Nestled within the lush, rolling landscape of the Vale of Glamorgan lies a secret that seems plucked from the pages of a storybook. The village of Merthyr Mawr, with its idyllic thatched cottages and serene atmosphere, offers a perfect escape for a cosy autumn break, feeling a world away from modern life despite being just a ten-minute drive from Bridgend.
A Step Back in Time
Home to a small community of around 300 residents, Merthyr Mawr is a place where history feels palpably alive. The village lacks a conventional high street, which only adds to its timeless charm. Its very name has ancient roots, originating from Merthyr Mymor or Myfor, a Welsh Saint believed to have been martyred on these grounds.
Archaeological finds confirm that this area has been a hub of activity for millennia. Discoveries range from Stone Age flints to Bronze Age burial sites, with Roman roads and Victorian stonework adding further layers to its rich historical tapestry. At the village's heart stands the Merthyr Mawr Estate, a 19th-century mansion built by the landed gentry Sir John Nicholl, which remains a private residence to this day.
Hollywood History and Tranquil Trails
This picturesque location has even caught the eye of Hollywood. The vast sand dunes nearby served as a filming location for the 1962 epic Lawrence of Arabia. Today, these same dunes form part of the Merthyr Mawr Warren National Nature Reserve, often described as a 'Sahara Desert' on the Welsh coast.
The best way to soak in the village's unique atmosphere is on foot. A gentle stroll reveals a landscape where a babbling brook meanders through ancient woodland and Shire horses graze in verdant fields. The walk leads you to St Teilo's Church, a site believed to be built on a structure predating the 19th century. The church is home to a small collection of inscribed medieval stones from the 5th century.
Castles, Saunas, and Cosy Pubs
A ten-minute walk from the church brings you to the robust stone walls of Ogmore Castle, a 12th-century Norman keep. Access is via ancient stepping stones, which local legend says were used by a castle princess to meet her lover. Further along, you can explore the ruins of Candleston Castle, a fortified 14th-century manor house built for the de Cantaloupe family.
For a truly unique experience, a traditional Lithuanian wood-fired sauna and hot tub is tucked away in the woods, offering a perfect spot to unwind. After a day of exploration, the nearby Ogmore village provides sustenance. Cobbles Kitchen is renowned for its mouth-watering roast dinners, while the Pelican Inn offers the ideal setting for a cosy pint by a warming fireside.
With its fairytale aesthetic, profound history, and tranquil setting often devoid of crowds, Merthyr Mawr stands as a hidden gem, offering an unforgettable autumnal retreat into the heart of Welsh heritage.
