On a particularly dreary London evening, The Hart stands out as the ideal sanctuary. Navigating through the cheerful crowds downstairs in Marylebone, where patrons cluster around the bar and spill onto the pavement, you ascend a steep, narrow staircase to discover a snug, wood-panelled room. This space evokes a charming blend of a Swiss chalet and an Edwardian chop house, with pristine white paper tablecloths, thick napkins, and flickering candles adorning every table.
A Warm and Inviting Atmosphere
The lighting is deliciously dim, casting a soft glow, while a blazing fire crackles at one end, adding to the cosy ambience. Pair this with a martini, chilled to perfection and as cold as a tyrant's heart, and you have a restaurant that encourages lingering and relaxation.
Expertise Behind the Venue
The owners are far from newcomers to London's dining scene. The Hart is the latest addition from the Public House Group, which also operates The Pelican, The Hero, and The Fat Badger. This group excels at revitalising historic pubs in affluent neighbourhoods, enhancing their appeal without sacrificing the authentic charm of a traditional local pub.
Menu Highlights and Culinary Delights
At The Hart, the menu features a mix of elevated bar snacks and straightforward British comfort food, presented with refined elegance. Starters include cheese straws with an impeccable balance of crunch and chewiness, and a pork pie with a golden, crisp exterior and a tender, lardy interior filled with peppery meat from high-quality pork, generously accompanied by jelly.
For mains, the pressed pig's head is coated in breadcrumbs and deep-fried, offering a subtly sweet interior with a faint farmyard aroma. The sirloin steak, cooked rare, stands out for its delicate ferric tang and is served with confit potatoes that boast crisp edges and a rich, buttery allure.
Personal Experiences and Awards
On my third visit, and second for dinner, I reflected on a recent lunch experience in a private room at The Hart. There, alongside chefs, restaurateurs, critics, and food writers, we judged the Condé Nast Traveller Restaurant Awards. We savoured dishes such as delicate crab cakes, a bold beef tartare served with crisps, perfectly cooked trout, and a decadently excessive banoffee pie. Despite being a discerning group, everyone offered unreserved praise for the meal.
Minor Criticisms and Overall Impression
If there is a drawback, it lies in the wine list, which offers few options under £50 and features steep prices. Nevertheless, the food is utterly compelling, and the setting is equally inviting, making The Hart a destination where you genuinely want to dine. Ultimately, that is the essence of a memorable night out.
Expect to spend about £50 per person. The Hart is located at 56 Blandford Street, London W1, with further details available on their website.
Rating: Highly recommended for its atmosphere and cuisine.
