Chasing a hunting leopard across the Botswana bush in a rugged 4x4 isn't a typical holiday pursuit for most. Yet for journalist Victoria Richards, it became a transformative lesson in fearlessness, guided by a pioneering woman reshaping a male-dominated industry.
Ferrari Safari with a Fearless Pioneer
"There's a leopard out there – hunting," announced guide Bae, her excitement palpable as she pointed into the dense scrub of the Okavango Delta. With a dazzle of zebras and a tower of giraffes as a backdrop, she cranked the vehicle into gear. "Ferrari safari! Let's go!" she yelled to her nervous passengers, a mix of Brits and Belgians clinging to the handrails.
The chase was relentless, bouncing through elephant-made craters and charging across plains. They finally found the magnificent cat, perfectly camouflaged just five feet away, finishing a meal of baby impala. This intense, raw encounter set the tone for a stay at Atzaró Okavango, an unfenced five-star camp where respect for the wild is paramount. As staff shared, even elephants can wander into reception, a reminder that this is firmly the animals' territory.
More Than Guiding: Breaking Stereotypes in the Wild
Bae's role is historic. In 2025, Atzaró Okavango introduced female guides in partnership with the African Bush Camps Foundation and its Female Guides Programme, launched in 2021 in Botswana and Zambia. Bae represents a significant shift in a deeply stereotypical field. "In Botswana, women used to be housewives," she explained. "The guiding industry is still very male. Tourists expect a male guide – they see strength in a man. But guiding is about knowledge. And sometimes, ladies can do it better."
Her expertise was undeniable. From finding a cheetah on the first drive to discovering rare aardwolf pups and a pack of African wild dogs, Bae delivered spectacular sightings. She calmly set up sunset drinks as hyenas watched curiously, explaining their behaviour to soothe nerves. Her philosophy was simple: use your senses and instinct. "If there is something wrong, my body will know," she said.
Luxury, Wildlife, and Unforgettable Lessons
The camp itself, located between the Moremi Game Reserve and Gomoti Plains in the UNESCO-listed Okavango Delta, offers pristine luxury. Guests enjoy private helicopter transfers, villas with bathing pools, Michelin-standard food, and a lagoon-side spa. Yet, the true highlight was the immersive wilderness experience and the staff's warmth.
The bush itself offered poignant metaphors. The group witnessed a giraffe giving birth, supported by a circle of female companions, while males lingered seeking mating opportunities. They repeatedly encountered a pair of mating lions, the male exhausted but vigilant, the lioness mourning her lost cubs. These observations sparked reflections on nature, society, and resilience.
For Richards, the journey with Bae – a gutsy mother-of-two – redefined the safari experience. It was less about ticking off the "Big Five" and more about confronting personal fears, trusting in deep knowledge over brute strength, and witnessing the quiet empowerment of a woman leading the way in the wild. The adventure was part of the new Atzaró African Ultimate Experience, a nine-day itinerary combining Cape Town with the Okavango Delta, with prices starting from $11,340 per person.