For more than a century, it served steaming bowls of noodles that came with a side of memories. But now, the doors of the oldest Chinese restaurant in America have closed for good. The legendary Pekin Noodle Parlor, which counted actress Helen Mirren among its fans, has shut down after 115 years in business.
A simple 'closed' sign was posted on the door last week, marking the end for a beloved spot that first opened in Butte, Montana, in 1911. Owner Jerry Tam, whose great-great-grandfather started the restaurant, said changing dining habits played a big role in his decision to close, with Americans increasingly choosing takeout over traditional sit-down meals.
'While this is a sad day for us, we take comfort in the memories shared within these walls and the legacy that will always remain in this community,' Tam said. While takeout had long been part of the business, Tam noted that shifting attitudes toward dining out made it too hard to sustain operations. He expressed regret over closing but acknowledged that customers no longer wanted 'to dine out and enjoy each other's company over hot tea and a warm bowl of noodles.'
The closure comes amid a broader trend of US restaurant chains shutting hundreds of locations due to rising labor costs, higher inflation, and changing habits. The Pekin Noodle Parlor was recognized as the oldest family-owned Chinese restaurant in the United States.
Community Mourns a Landmark
Long-time fans have taken to social media to mourn the passing of the Pekin. Gail Hyer composed a tribute on Facebook, writing, 'When I was a kid in the 50s and 60s, we'd go there for special occasions. You'll stay in many of our memories.' Ryan Enyaw shared another memory, noting that 'one of the last great moments of my mom's life was watching her enjoy a meal at Pekin in 2021.' He added, 'In the few times we've been back since her passing, I could almost see her in one of the empty chairs enjoying it all over again - a reminder of when she was healthier and a whole lot happier.'
Joy Storrud shared poignant memories, writing that her husband took her to the Peking on their first date in 1972. 'Being from Hamilton I couldn't believe the atmosphere and wonderful food. I have been married since 1973 and will so miss this restaurant,' she wrote.
A Legacy of Generations
Over the generations, the restaurant gained national significance. In 2011, former senator Max Baucus read Pekin into the Congressional Record, calling it a centerpiece of Butte's Chinatown and the broader community. The restaurant's iconic orange booths were a favorite of long-time patrons. Over the decades, miners, families, and curious visitors flocked to the restaurant, with classic dishes like chop suey and Yatcamein noodles becoming staples.
Run by generations of the Tam family, the Pekin's roots stretch back to Chinese immigrants who arrived in the American West in the 1800s. It remained in the family for decades, most recently under the stewardship of Jerry Tam's father, Danny Wong, who ran it for more than 60 years before his death in 2020.
In 2023, the parlor received an America's Classics award from the James Beard Foundation, a fitting tribute to a restaurant that had already secured its place in history. The foundation says it gives the award to 'locally owned restaurants that have timeless appeal and are beloved regionally for quality food that reflects the character of its community.'
Behind the legacy was a tough reality. Tam said his father understood just how demanding the restaurant business could be and ultimately left the difficult decision to close in his son's hands. Now, after 115 years, one of America's most storied dining rooms has gone quiet, another sign of how quickly the restaurant landscape is changing.
