Grace Dent, the acclaimed restaurant critic, recently stepped into Barbarella, the glitzy new dining spot in Canary Wharf. With its opulent interiors and Mediterranean-inspired menu, the restaurant promises a lavish experience—but does it deliver?
A Feast for the Eyes
From the moment you enter Barbarella, the decor is impossible to ignore. Think velvet banquettes, shimmering chandeliers, and gold accents—a setting that feels more like a Bond villain’s lair than a City eatery. It’s undeniably Instagrammable, but as Dent notes, style shouldn’t overshadow substance.
Highs and Lows on the Menu
The food, unfortunately, is a mixed bag. Standouts include the burrata with truffle honey—a creamy, indulgent delight—and the lobster linguine, which Dent describes as "perfectly al dente with just the right kick of chilli." However, the saffron risotto falls flat, lacking depth, while the tiramisu is dismissed as "more style than soul."
Service with a Side of Chaos
Service is another sticking point. While the staff are undeniably attentive, Dent observes a few too many "frantic" moments, with dishes arriving haphazardly and wine orders misplaced. For a restaurant with such lofty ambitions, these missteps are hard to ignore.
The Verdict
Barbarella is a restaurant with undeniable flair, but it’s not yet the polished gem it aspires to be. As Dent puts it: "Come for the glamour, but don’t expect every dish to dazzle."
