End of an Era for British Fashion
The sale of the iconic British sportswear brand Gola to Japanese conglomerate Marubeni Corporation has been confirmed, marking the conclusion of 120 years of continuous British ownership. The deal, which includes other brands like Ravel and Lotus shoes, was finalised by the third-generation family owners, the Jacobson Group.
A Rich Heritage of British Icons
Founded in Leicester in 1905 as Joseph Leeson & Sons, Gola first made its name crafting handmade leather football boots. Its popularity soared in the 1970s, endorsed by footballing greats like Sir Alf Ramsey, Bill Shankly, and Emlyn Hughes. The brand later became a staple of British subculture, worn by musicians including the Gallagher brothers and Paul Weller.
Its cultural reach extended from the sports field to the silver screen. Sprinter Anita Neal, the first Black British woman Olympian, graced the cover of Athletics Weekly in Gola gear in 1972. Decades later, the brand found a place in the Harry Potter films, on the feet of Hermione Granger, played by Emma Watson. Perhaps most memorably, Superman actor Christopher Reeve wore a Gola sweatshirt during the 1987 'It's a Royal Knockout' event at Alton Towers.
Uncertainty and Hope for the Future
Dr Naomi Braithwaite, an associate professor in fashion at Nottingham School of Art and Design, commented on the significance of the sale. "Gola’s strength for so long is that it is British through and through. Undoubtedly this will feel like a loss," she said. She pointed to the challenges faced by the UK footwear industry since the 1980s, as manufacturing moved abroad.
The Jacobson Group, which reported revenues of £36.4 million and pre-tax profits of £3.94 million in its last financial year, has assured that there will be "no job losses" and all processes will remain in the UK under the existing leadership team. A spokesperson stated the sale would "accelerate growth across key international markets."
However, Dr Braithwaite expressed cautious optimism. "Can a brand really still be considered British if it’s no longer in British hands? Only time will tell," she questioned. She noted that while the promise of no immediate changes is positive, new owners may seek opportunities in their own markets, potentially shifting the brand's core identity. "This change in ownership is unsettling to what remains of the British fashion and footwear industry, as it brings uncertainty to what lies ahead."
Despite the uncertainty, the brand's legacy as a cool, culturally significant British label—recently hailed by Vogue as one of "fashion’s most wanted shoes"—ensures its chapter under Japanese ownership will be watched closely by fans and industry experts alike.
