The Serene Ritual in a Scarred Land
The day begins before sunrise in Luang Prabang, a UNESCO World Heritage city in Laos. Under the faint glow of street lamps, a quiet procession of Buddhist monks in vibrant orange robes moves through the quiet streets. This is tak bat, the ancient daily almsgiving ritual that remains a cornerstone of life here, marked by the soft sound of bare feet on stone.
Nestled on a narrow peninsula between the Mekong and Nam Khan rivers, roughly 300 kilometres north of the capital Vientiane, Luang Prabang was once the seat of the historic Lan Xang kingdom. Today, it exudes a distinct cultural atmosphere. The gentle greeting of "sabaidee", often delivered with a small smile and palms pressed together, is offered freely to all.
A Legacy of Conflict Beneath the Surface
This tranquillity, however, masks a dangerous history. Between 1964 and 1973, during the US-led "Secret War," more than 2 million tons of ordnance were dropped on Laos. According to the Lao government, this made it the most heavily bombed country per capita in modern history.
The conflict's deadly legacy persists. An estimated one-third of those bombs failed to explode on impact. Decades later, this unexploded ordnance (UXO) still lies hidden beneath farmland and villages, directly limiting agricultural development and dictating where communities can safely live and build.
Faith and Resilience in Modern Laos
Life in Luang Prabang is defined by routine and resilience. In this predominantly Theravada Buddhist society, many boys from rural areas enter monasteries as novice monks. Here, they receive an education, accommodation, and food, studying both Buddhist scriptures and modern school subjects. In the evenings, their chants drift from temples like Wat Xieng Thong into the surrounding streets.
The local economy leans on tourism, agriculture, and handicrafts. Visitors and locals alike climb Mount Phousi in the afternoons to watch the sun set over the Mekong River. Time seems to move slowly here, inviting a disconnection from the digital world. Yet, the enduring presence of UXO is a constant, sombre reminder of a past that continues to shape the nation's present and future.
