Beyond Carbonara: Chef Gennaro Contaldo Reveals Italy's Hidden Culinary Treasures
Italian food might be globally celebrated for classics like carbonara, Bolognese, and cacio e pepe, but according to renowned chef Gennaro Contaldo, these famous dishes barely scratch the surface of Italy's true culinary landscape. In his latest exploration, Contaldo uncovers a world of forgotten regional specialties and centuries-old family recipes that showcase a far richer and more surprising cuisine than most people realise.
A Lifetime of Discovery
Gennaro Contaldo, who grew up on Italy's Amalfi Coast before moving to Britain over five decades ago, has dedicated his life to Italian food. Yet even he admits to being astonished by the incredible variety within his native country's cuisine. "It's incredible – I didn't know myself," confesses Contaldo, known for his numerous television appearances alongside protege Jamie Oliver.
The chef cites with genuine excitement that there are approximately 600 known shapes of pasta, with "God knows how many other thousands" of variations existing across Italian households. "Each family makes their own versions, their own way," he explains, highlighting the deeply personal nature of Italian cooking traditions.
Preserving Culinary Heritage
Contaldo's new cookbook, Hidden Italy, represents nearly two years of intensive research divided across four geographical regions: central Italy, the islands, the north, and the south. The 77-year-old chef faced significant challenges in documenting these recipes, noting that "nobody's writing any books about those original recipes and where they come from."
These culinary traditions haven't disappeared, Contaldo clarifies, but rather "they hide" within families who continue preparing them generation after generation. With the world changing rapidly and generations evolving, Contaldo feels a pressing need to preserve these beautiful recipes in writing before they risk being lost forever.
"There is a story for every single food," Contaldo emphasises, having met numerous people still preparing these lesser-known dishes during his research. He stresses that Italian cuisine represents far more than just spaghetti and a glass of wine – "Italy is an emotion" woven through centuries of culinary history.
Regional Delights and Historical Connections
One fascinating example Contaldo shares is the pasticcio di pasta alla ferrarese, a type of pasta pie made from tortiglioni or rigatoni baked in a mince meat ragu and bechamel sauce, all topped with pastry. This dish originated from noble banquets during Renaissance times, with the recipe spreading from Ischia, an island near Naples, throughout the country.
"They share recipes – Italy's like that," Contaldo explains. "Italians, they communicate, they speak, and they transfer their love through food." This cultural exchange has created a culinary tapestry where dishes migrate and evolve while maintaining their historical roots.
The Art of Homemade Pasta
While Italian households commonly prepare fresh pasta for meals – a practice much rarer outside Italy – Contaldo encourages everyone to try making their own. He describes the process as "so easy" and "not scary," noting it's actually cheaper than many people assume.
"Ordinary flour, mix with water – it's so easy. If you do it with eggs, one egg for 100 grams of flour is all you need, then you have almost 200 grams of pasta," he explains. This quantity can "easily feed" two or even three people once boiled.
One of the greatest joys of homemade pasta, according to Contaldo, is creating "your own shapes." He makes "endless shapes" himself and suggests using pasta dough off-cuts to create fazzoletti, meaning "silk handkerchiefs," ensuring nothing goes to waste.
For those purchasing dried pasta – which Contaldo acknowledges can be "magnificent" – he advises careful selection. "You have to be very careful when you buy pasta, because they make pasta all over the world – but they use rubbish flour, and God knows what kind of eggs," he cautions, recommending people buy "proper Italian pasta" and always cook it al dente for better taste and digestion.
Cultural Contrasts and Philosophical Differences
Contaldo observes significant differences between Italian and British approaches to food. He notes that Brits tend to eat "too quickly," contrasting this with the Italian philosophy where "what you see is what you eat" – encouraging diners to truly taste each ingredient, whether carrots, beans, or other components.
"In England, it's the culture of drink; in Italy, it's the culture of food – and wine," Contaldo summarises. He explains that in Italy, "The food and wine are balanced. Water is to drink, but wine is to flavour [the food], to help ingest it. Everything else, it's all [about] the friendships, the philosophy."
Keeping Italian Culture Alive
Despite not having lived in Italy for decades, Contaldo continues discovering new aspects of his native cuisine, often encountering unfamiliar dishes at Italian restaurants in London where chefs incorporate regional specialties from their own cultural backgrounds.
"I cook from north to south, and I cook from the Amalfi Coast. I want to remember where I came from. I want to know my roots," Contaldo states, explaining his lifelong dedication to keeping Italian culinary culture "alive."
Sample Recipes from Hidden Italy
Stewed Squid and Potatoes
This Amalfi Coast cucina povera classic perfectly combines sea and land elements. Traditionally using local totani squid, the recipe adapts to whatever squid is available. Contaldo recommends serving it with rustic bread and Greco di Tufo white wine to capture the sensations of the Amalfi Coast.
Pasta with Anchovies and Breadcrumbs
A traditional Palermo dish linked to Sicilian migration to Northern Italy, often called La Pasta Milanisa. Migrants brought preserved ingredients like salted anchovies and homemade tomato estratto, creating dishes that reminded them of southern sunshine while living in Milan's winter fog.
Filled Brioche
This "tear and share" brioche cake from Alto Adige/South Tyrol demonstrates how northern Italian cuisine has been influenced by neighbouring Austria. Filled with quality apricot jam and best served warm, it represents the cross-cultural exchanges that enrich Italy's culinary heritage.
Through Hidden Italy, Gennaro Contaldo invites readers to look beyond familiar Italian dishes and discover the extraordinary depth, history, and regional diversity that makes Italian cuisine truly exceptional.
