The culinary world mourns the loss of Skye Gyngell, the groundbreaking Australian chef who passed away from Merkel cell carcinoma at age 62. As the first Australian woman to receive a Michelin star, Gyngell revolutionised British dining with her emphasis on local produce and elegant, simple presentations.
From London Café to Michelin Glory
Gyngell's rise to prominence began in 2004 when she opened the Petersham Nurseries Café in south-west London. The establishment quickly gained critical acclaim, winning Time Out's best alfresco dining award in 2005 and Tatler's most original restaurant award in 2006. In 2011, the café achieved what few could imagine - a Michelin star, making Gyngell a culinary pioneer.
Before her Petersham success, Gyngell had already built an impressive reputation, cooking for high-profile clients including Nigella Lawson, Charles Saatchi, Madonna and Guy Ritchie while simultaneously serving as food editor at Vogue magazine until 2003.
A Life Dedicated to Culinary Excellence
Born in Sydney to television executive Bruce Gyngell and interior decorator Ann Barr, Gyngell's early food experiences were unconventional. The family followed a macrobiotic diet during the 1970s, which she later recalled involved "umeboshi plums, agar agar and 60% grain intake" while olive oil was completely banned.
After studying law at Sydney University, Gyngell discovered her passion for cooking while working in a deli, inspired by Lebanese cook Layla Sorfie. At 19, she moved to Paris to study at Anne Willan's La Varenne cookery school, followed by two years at the Michelin-starred restaurant Dodin-Bouffant where she mastered classic French techniques.
Her career continued in London with positions at The Dorchester under Anton Mosimann and later with Fergus and Margot Henderson at The French House in Soho, where she found her culinary philosophy aligned with their simpler, ingredient-focused approach.
Beyond the Michelin Star: Lasting Legacy
After leaving Petersham Nurseries Café in 2012, Gyngell returned to the London dining scene in November 2014 with Spring restaurant at Somerset House. Designed by her sister Briony, the establishment showcased her evolved style in a setting of classical grandeur.
Her final role as culinary director at Heckfield Place in Hampshire represented the culmination of her vision. There she collaborated with farmer Jane Scotter to create a hotel farm growing rare produce, establishing a working dairy, and planting orchards - truly bringing her farm-to-table philosophy to life.
Despite her success, Gyngell faced personal challenges, including a 20-year struggle with drug and alcohol addiction that ended with her father's death in 2000. She authored four cookery books and was known in professional kitchens as a demanding but inspiring leader who encouraged staff to meet her exacting standards.
Skye Gyngell is survived by her daughters Holly and Evie, and siblings David and Briony. Her legacy as a chef who combined artistic vision with profound technical skill continues to influence generations of cooks dedicated to honest, ingredient-driven cuisine.
