Sinking into a sun lounger with a glass of prosecco in hand, surrounded by lush greenery and a scattering of outdoor jacuzzis, I could easily be in Spain. But I am actually in St Albans, Hertfordshire - just a 20-minute train ride from London - at my favourite spa in the UK: Sopwell House, home to The Club at Cottonmill.
The Spa Experience
It is the highlight of any stay here - and, for most people, the main reason to visit. My parents live just five minutes down the road, yet I still find myself booking a room regularly, purely to maximise time in the spa. With most rooms offering Club access from check-in at 2pm through to check-out at 11am (and the spa open until 9pm), late-night dips in the outdoor pools quickly become a non-negotiable. Recently refurbished and expanded, the spa is as indulgent as it is serene.
There is an indoor pool, an outdoor hydrotherapy pool, multiple steam rooms and a sauna with panoramic views over Sopwell's immaculate gardens - so picturesque that many couples choose to get married here (including some of my friends). Outside, hot tubs bubble away among the greenery, while inside you will find plush relaxation areas, a well-equipped gym and a hydration station stocked with herbal teas. Despite its popularity, it never feels overcrowded - it is almost always possible to find a quiet corner of the pool or a free hot tub to sink into.
Accommodation Options
Access to The Club is limited to select room categories. I have previously stayed in a Luxe Suite in the main house, and this time opted for a Mews Studio Suite, set within a gated collection of cottage-style rooms just across the road. Both are similarly priced and come with thoughtful extras - complimentary gin, beers, soft drinks, macarons and crisps. At first glance, the Mews feel more luxurious: they are quieter, more private, and come with access to a shared garden hot tub. Unfortunately, ours appeared to have been claimed by a rather territorial group of wasps, so we gave it a miss. Inside, the suite was also noticeably darker than expected - not ideal for getting ready, especially with no conveniently placed plugs near a mirror (a small but significant hotel pet peeve of mine). By contrast, the Luxe Suite felt brighter and more polished, with beautiful views across the gardens - and would still be my pick for a return stay.
Dining Delights
Beyond the spa, Sopwell's dining is another major draw. Breakfast is excellent and included, while dinner options range from traditional British dishes at The Brasserie to the hotel's standout pan-Asian restaurant, Omboo - the real reason I keep coming back. We start with afternoon tea - an unlimited spread of sandwiches, cakes and teas - before returning later for dinner and opting for the tasting menu. Highlights include the crispy duck salad, fried chicken karaage, glazed aubergine and a seared wagyu beef dish that arrives theatrically sizzling on a hot slab. Dessert is equally indulgent: a generous platter of cakes alongside a refreshing lychee sorbet each. The Manjari chocolate mousse is the clear standout.
When the food and spa is this perfect, it is no wonder leaving feels like a mistake - and returning inevitable.
Travel Facts: Rooms at Sopwell House start from £249 a night. To book: pobhotels.com.
