Michael Portillo's Perilous Japanese Expedition: Fugu Fish and Volcanic Sand Rituals
Former Conservative MP Michael Portillo has candidly shared the most hazardous moments from his recent travels across Japan for the BBC television series Great Japanese Railway Journeys. The presenter, who has built a successful media career exploring global railways since leaving politics, described sampling the notoriously lethal fugu puffer fish and submitting to a traditional volcanic sand burial as among his most unforgettable—and nerve-wracking—experiences.
A Deadly Delicacy: Playing 'Japanese Roulette' with Fugu
In an interview with Radio Times, Portillo revealed his encounter with fugu, a Japanese puffer fish that contains tetrodotoxin—one of the most potent neurotoxins known to science. This substance is approximately one thousand times more powerful than cyanide and has no known antidote. Portillo explained that chefs require around two decades of specialised training before they are licensed to prepare the fish, which must be meticulously cleaned to remove its toxic liver, eyes, and skin.
"I tried it at Shimonoseki on the island of Honshu," Portillo recounted. "You have this real feeling of playing Russian—or Japanese—Roulette." Despite the life-threatening risks, the actual taste proved underwhelming. He described it as "quite pleasant—neither the best nor the worst fish I've ever had, though possibly the most exciting, given that I was dicing with death!"
The neurotoxin's effects are particularly disturbing: victims remain fully conscious as a subtle tingling in the lips rapidly spreads, causing paralysis and, when the toxin reaches the heart, death. While a handful of people have survived poisoning through intensive medical intervention, most who consume improperly prepared fugu succumb. A skilled chef leaves just a trace amount of poison to create a slight tingling sensation, a practice so dangerous that Japan's emperor is traditionally forbidden from sampling the dish.
Buried Alive: The Unnerving Volcanic Sand Ritual
Portillo's Japanese adventure included another hazardous experience: the traditional wellness ritual known as sunamushi, where participants are buried up to the neck in warm volcanic sand. Dating back at least three centuries, this practice involves wearing a cotton yukata robe before lying in a shallow pit and being completely covered in sand. The combination of the sand's weight, elevated temperature, and mineral content is believed to enhance blood circulation and alleviate joint discomfort.
However, Portillo found the experience far from relaxing. "It's doubtful you could get yourself out," he remarked, noting that spa staff must be on hand to assist if participants become overwhelmed. His session was further marred by poor weather: "They stuck a parasol on my head to protect me from the sun—although it then poured with rain, and it was one of those pretty paper ones so not terribly effective at keeping me dry. I won't be hurrying to do the whole thing again."
From Politics to Perilous Travels
Michael Portillo has successfully transformed his childhood passion for steam trains into a lucrative media career following his departure from politics. Beginning with Great British Railway Journeys in 2009, he has fronted comparable travel programmes across Europe, America, India, and Australia. His Japanese trip, part of a trio of Asian travelogues, provided some of his most extreme experiences to date, blending cultural exploration with genuine physical risk.
These encounters highlight the extraordinary lengths to which Portillo goes for his television series, combining railway journeys with immersive—and sometimes dangerous—local traditions. His candid reflections offer viewers a glimpse into the realities behind the scenic travel footage, where culinary adventures and wellness rituals can carry unexpected perils.
