To an American arriving in Britain during the 1990s, the first encounter with a traditional Christmas pudding can be a startling experience. Expecting something akin to the figgy pudding of carols or a cold, custard-like dessert, the reality is a dense, boiled sphere of suet, flour, and dried fruits, often doused in spirits and set aflame. While it may not win over every palate, this festive staple holds a significance far beyond its ingredients: it is a tangible, edible relic of the British Empire's vast global reach.
From Medieval Potage to Imperial Icon
Christmas pudding as we know it is a relatively modern invention, born from the fusion of two much older, medieval dishes. The first was a savoury, runny porridge called "plum pottage," a winter preservation dish containing meats, dried fruits, and spices. The term "plum" historically referred to raisins, currants, and similar dried fruits.
The second ancestor was figgy pudding, documented by the 14th century and immortalised in song. This was a sweet and savoury mixture, bagged with flour and suet and steamed into a firmer shape. During the 18th century, these two concepts merged into the plum pudding.
This transformation was catalysed less by culinary innovation and more by the burgeoning British Empire. Once-luxury goods like French brandy, Mediterranean raisins, and Caribbean citrus became more accessible. Crucially, the brutal labour of enslaved Africans on plantations made cane sugar cheap and ubiquitous, reaching even the poorest British homes by mid-century. This affordable sweetness helped cement plum pudding as a beloved British treat.
The Victorian Christmas Reinvention
The pudding's definitive link to Christmas was forged in the Victorian era. Charles Dickens enshrined it as the centrepiece of the festive feast in his 1843 novel, A Christmas Carol, describing Mrs Cratchit's proud entrance with the blazing dessert.
Its popularity was further secured in 1846 when the recipe favoured by Queen Victoria was published. Like the Christmas tree, it became a domestic aspiration. Its beauty lay in its adaptability: the middle class could afford the candied peel, spices, and brandy, while those with less means could substitute ale for brandy or use recipes incorporating carrots and potatoes, as suggested by cookbook author Eliza Acton.
The pudding's high alcohol content and durability allowed it to travel across the empire. It was enjoyed by gold diggers in Australia and provided a taste of home for British soldiers serving in the Crimea in 1855 and in Afghanistan.
Empire Pudding: A Recipe for Imperial Unity
The pudding's imperial symbolism was explicitly harnessed in the 1920s. The British Women’s Patriotic League rebranded it as "Empire Pudding," promoting it as an emblem of imperial unity. They advocated for ingredients sourced exclusively from across the empire: Australian and South African dried fruits, Ceylonese cinnamon, Indian spices, and Jamaican rum replacing French brandy.
This campaign peaked during London’s 1926 Empire Day celebrations, where representatives from across the empire poured ingredients into a ceremonial bowl. The following year, the Empire Marketing Board promoted a royal recipe with King George V's permission. Mass production by grocers like Sainsbury’s placed these imperial puddings on tables worldwide.
A Lasting Legacy in a Post-Colonial World
Decolonisation did not end the pudding's appeal. It remains a Christmas fixture in the UK, famously confounding airport security scanners with its dense shape. The tradition endured in former settler colonies like Canada, while in summer-celebrating Australia, trifle and pavlova now rival it. In parts of India, it remains a traditional favourite, sometimes known as "pudim."
Modern chefs like Jamie Oliver offer contemporary twists, including gluten-free versions. His classic recipe, however, would not be unfamiliar to Victorians, though it now might include American ingredients like pecans, cranberries, and bourbon—a fusion reflecting today's globalised palate, much like the pudding itself has always reflected the world of its time.
