Hermès Paris Show Transforms Twilight into Olfactory Experience
At the Hermès fashion show in Paris on Saturday, guests experienced the fall collection through scent before sight. The event, held at the Garde Républicaine barracks, was transformed into a forest floor carpeted with thick, damp moss, filling the air with the rich aroma of humus. In a Paris Fashion Week still awaiting Chanel and Louis Vuitton, Hermès demonstrated that luxury at its most persuasive operates subtly, altering the very atmosphere of the room.
Theatrical Yet Purposeful Design
Models emerged from luminous circular openings in the walls, resembling figures stepping through a full moon, and walked a raised, winding catwalk above the vegetation. The set was theatrical but never gimmicky, achieving exactly what creative director Nadège Vanhée intended: it disoriented and captivated attendees, creating an immersive environment.
Collection Inspired by Dusk
Vanhée, who has led Hermès womenswear since 2014, titled the fall-winter collection "Entre chien et loup," a French expression for dusk—that uneasy moment when distinguishing between a dog and a wolf becomes difficult. Her show notes referenced Hecate, the torch-wielding goddess of darkness, though the clothing leaned more toward muscular and precise designs rather than mythological themes.
Leather and Equestrian Influences
Leather dominated the collection, featuring fluid overcoats with enormous Tuscan sheepskin collars and zip-front mini dresses in inky blue that revealed contrasting shirts underneath. An orange ostrich-leather jumpsuit, belted at the waist, blended biker attitude with Hermès refinement. The house's equestrian heritage surfaced in jodhpurs and flat-heeled riding boots, while glossy lambskin cycling shorts paired with aviator jackets pushed the aesthetic into harder, urban territory.
Subtle Color Palette and Functional Details
The palette avoided obvious choices, arguing that night is not simply black. Colors shifted from sulfur yellow to oxblood red, forest green to iridescent burgundy—surfaces that caught and changed in the light, appearing almost alive. Zips were prevalent, slicing diagonally across jackets or running the full length of dresses, serving both functional and decorative purposes to suggest garments could be reconfigured. Double-breasted blazers and cigarette trousers provided a sharp tailored foundation, while quilted silks printed with cloud-strewn skies offered rare moments of softness.
The collection concluded with quiet force, emphasizing Hermès' commitment to understated luxury and innovative presentation. This olfactory-driven show set a high bar for sensory engagement in fashion, blending traditional craftsmanship with contemporary theatricality to create a memorable Paris Fashion Week moment.
