Alessandro Michele presented 'Fireflies', a Valentino collection at Paris Fashion Week that marked a shift towards restraint. Against strobe lights evoking seediness, the designer offered prim 1970s silhouettes with bows, ruching, and velvet skirts, creating a mood of controlled nostalgia.
The standout piece was a draped gold gown with a feathered white collar, referencing myth and the house's Roman heritage. Elsewhere, a polka-dot shirt, satin skirts split with bright yellow panels, and occasional colour blocking maintained Michele's eclectic spirit, though with less exuberance than in previous collections.
This show emphasised editing over spectacle. Where Michele's early Valentino collections and his Gucci tenure thrived on overload — tassels, turbans, ruffles — here he cut cleaner lines and pared back styling. The result felt more wearable but less astonishing, capturing the tension between wardrobe and wonder that he continues to explore.
Michele also included a Vans collaboration alongside tweed pants, V-neck knits, and faux-fur jackets, grounding the house in daily wear. Yet 'Fireflies' appeared cautious, a quieter chapter proving Michele capable of restraint, even as he balances maximalist nostalgia with relevance to keep the brand from freezing in time.
