The Taiwanese town of Fenglin has gained a reputation as a place where life moves at a leisurely pace, allowing residents and visitors alike to catch their breath. Rather than resist this rhythm, the town of approximately 10,000 has decided to embrace it, making it a core part of its identity. Enter the snails.
A Unique Celebration of Slowness
Fenglin has been hosting snail races as a way to celebrate its commitment to a slower, sustainable lifestyle that prioritises healthcare, longevity, and community ties. The events also aim to revive tourism following a powerful earthquake in April 2024 that dampened travel in the surrounding region.
“The earthquake two years ago had a relatively big impact on tourism because people are worried an earthquake may happen again,” said Hsu Lu, a 32-year-old resident. “Many people have left Hualien because of earthquakes,” he added, referring to the county that frequently experiences seismic activity.
Snails have become a quirky draw to bring tourists back, even if progress is slow.
Focus on Quality of Life
Fenglin has associated itself with snails since 2014, when it joined the Cittaslow international network of small cities dedicated to quality of life and locally sourced foods. Cittaslow’s symbol is a snail carrying an assortment of buildings on its back.
The slow city designation suited Fenglin, whose population has shrunk threefold over the past few decades. Today, it also exemplifies Taiwan’s “super-aged” society, with over 20% of residents aged 65 or older.
To help revive local tourism after the 2024 earthquake, which killed 19 people and injured over 1,100, residents decided to host a snail race the following month, said organiser Cheng Jen-shou. “We thought that our event could attract people, and that would be a small help,” he explained. This year, the town held the third edition of the race over the May Day holiday.
Snail Race Attracts Dozens from Near and Far
Several dozen enthusiastic residents and tourists attended the event, which featured six snail races spread over two days. Winners from each heat competed in the final, but not before being paraded slowly on a piece of plywood across a green carpet as fans cheered.
Li Cheng-wen, a 70-year-old retiree from Fenglin, brought several snails he had caught in his vegetable garden. Instead of killing them as some farmers do, he decided to raise them as pets. He feeds them bananas, papaya, and vegetable leaves, and showers them daily. “As to the criteria for choosing snails for the race, I usually select those that are very active and pleasing to the eye,” Li said.
Kelvin Hong and Tiara Lin also brought a snail named Aquaman, a giant African snail, from the southern city of Kaohsiung, a five-hour drive away. The couple had signed up Aquaman for a previous race in 2024, but just as they were heading to Fenglin, Lin went into labour. Now the whole family returned to cheer on Aquaman.
Brother Snail, a Recurring Champion
Despite being larger than most local competitors, Aquaman was rather slow. Once the race started, it and nine other snails were placed near the centre of a round table covered with a thin vinyl sheet. The first to reach the edge was crowned the winner.
The absolute champion was Guage, or Brother Snail. Its owner, 39-year-old Tanya Lin from Hualien, had been raising the snail since 2024, when it also won a race. This year, Brother Snail crossed the 33-centimetre (13-inch) tablecloth in 3 minutes and 3 seconds, earning the top spot on a tiny stadium and a prize of organic sweet potato leaves.
An Alternative to a Fast-Paced Lifestyle
Besides the snail race, the local government has been promoting tourism through guided e-bike tours that stop at historic tobacco barns, Japanese colonial-era buildings, and a Hakka-minority museum.
The idea of a slower pace of life attracted university students Annette Lin and Tanya Liu, who rode the train for about 30 minutes from Hualien to check out the snail race and Fenglin’s slow vibes. The friends found the competition unique and enjoyed Fenglin’s leisurely pace, but only as a break from busy city life. “I think for travel or a trip, it’s a great choice,” Liu said. “But maybe living here would not really be my dream choice.”
