Southampton, a city with a rich maritime heritage and a thriving student population, has recently been controversially labelled as the United Kingdom's worst city in a national newspaper ranking. The Daily Telegraph awarded it a mere one out of ten points, placing it at the bottom of a list of Britain's twenty largest urban centres. However, after an immersive weekend visit with her twenty-year-old daughter Rosie, journalist Fiona Whitty discovered a destination brimming with unexpected delights, challenging this harsh assessment entirely.
A Cocktail Masterclass in a Hidden Speakeasy
The exploration began at 1932, an elegant bar concealed behind unmarked doors, accessed via a buzzer to enhance its clandestine speakeasy atmosphere. Once a bank that opened in the year 1932, the venue is adorned with sleek art deco decor, featuring golden statue lamps and intricate lattice patterns. The bar manager and expert mixologist, Amy, has crafted a unique menu of bespoke cocktails, each with a clever financial theme.
"We were invited behind the bar to create our own drinks, which was a fantastic experience," Whitty recounted. "First, we mixed a 'Cash Money' cocktail, a creamy blend of rum, coconut, mango, and passionfruit, shaken vigorously in a traditional cocktail shaker. Next, we prepared a 'Platinum Card,' which emulated the flavour of rhubarb Squashies using vodka, rhubarb, and banana liqueurs, stirred and drizzled over ice. A 'Blank Cheque,' with gin, Campari, and Lillet Blanc, offered a tantalising hint of Aperol."
The cocktail masterclass, priced at forty pounds, provided both novelty and exquisite taste, with each creation being uniquely flavourful and perfectly balanced.
Cultural Feasts and Historical Depths
Following the cocktails, the pair ventured to Hokkaido, a hip Japanese restaurant popular with a diverse clientele, from young couples to families and friend groups. They enjoyed a hearty feast that included prawn tempura, fried tofu, chicken and vegetable gyoza, and an assortment of sushi, all of which tasted as magnificent as it appeared.
Southampton's profound maritime history, spanning over a thousand years, is an inescapable part of its character. The city is not only the departure point for the Titanic's ill-fated maiden voyage in 1912 but also where the Mayflower embarked nearly three centuries earlier, carrying Pilgrims to America.
Exploring Titanic Heritage
The SeaCity Museum hosts a brilliant and absorbing exhibition detailing the Titanic disaster, which claimed approximately 1,500 lives out of more than 2,200 passengers and crew. A mock courtroom recreates segments of the subsequent British Inquiry, allowing visitors to hear the actual testimonies of witnesses and the judge's verdicts. Entry costs fourteen pounds, with a ten percent discount available for advance bookings.
Outside, the Titanic Trail guides visitors to various memorials and points of interest, such as The Grapes pub, where several seamen lingered too long before departure and were consequently refused boarding, ultimately saving their lives. Strolling further, one can admire Southampton's remarkably well-preserved medieval city walls, constructed nearly seven hundred years ago to defend the crucial port after a surprise attack by French soldiers and Genoese mercenaries.
Artistic Venues and Coastal Dining
God's House Tower, once a city entry point, now serves as a museum and art gallery, with an exhibition detailing the city's defensive history for a fee of five pounds. The onsite café, offering excellent coffee and delightful apple buns, provides a perfect spot for a relaxing break.
Accommodation was at the voco Southampton, a stylish IHG hotel situated on the waterfront. A sixth-floor twin room offered panoramic views across the city's cruise terminal, where enormous ships docked and car ferries unloaded. The hotel's Atlantic Gate restaurant, with banks of windows overlooking the sea, boasts a chilled yet stylish ambience and a standout seafood-heavy menu.
"Over a couple of the hotel's superb cocktails, including a particularly hit champagne spritz with rum and coconut, we enjoyed fish soup with whole mussels and prawns, fried mixed seafood, and a monkfish, prawn, and coconut curry," Whitty described. "Every dish was simply delicious."
Theatrical Grandeur and Culinary Diversity
As avid theatre enthusiasts, Whitty and her daughter often attend shows while travelling, finding tickets generally more affordable than in their home city of London, with performances remaining equally exciting and professional. The Mayflower Theatre, a Southampton stalwart dating back to 1928 and now grade-II listed, is the largest theatre in the south outside London. It has hosted legendary acts like The Beatles, Queen, and the Rolling Stones, and continues to exude warmth and charm with original chandeliers, sleek cornicing, and ornate boxes. Today, it attracts top UK comedians, ballet troupes, opera stars, and West End-standard touring productions such as Matilda and Six.
For lunch, The Real Greek, nestled beside the Westquay shopping centre, offered a perfect sassy spot. Small plate favourites like hummus, tzatziki, Greek salad, and courgette fritters were complemented by tender grilled aubergine in a smoky tomato sauce and a pork gyros, all enhanced by a gorgeous Greek sangria made with white wine and vermouth.
Interactive Baseball and Social Fun
The final destination was 1st Base, the United Kingdom's first interactive baseball experience, which has given the sport a social makeover. In a safe and fun game bar environment, participants take turns entering a batting cage to hit balls propelled from a machine, while computer technology measures strike rates and speeds.
"As novices, Rosie and I started slowly but soon picked up the knack and loved the competitive yet relaxed atmosphere," Whitty noted. Additional amenities included shuffleboard, table tennis, and electronic basketball, alongside pizza and drinks, with dark 'n' stormy rum cocktails being particularly outstanding.
In conclusion, Southampton effortlessly combines historical depth, cultural vibrancy, culinary excellence, and modern entertainment. With convenient transport links, including half-hourly trains from London Waterloo taking just seventy-five minutes, and a range of attractions from speakeasy bars to interactive sports, the city comprehensively defies its undeserved reputation, offering a richly rewarding experience for all visitors.
