Simpson's in the Strand Reopens for Bicentenary Under Jeremy King's Vision
The storied London dining institution Simpson's in the Strand, founded in 1828 as a coffee and chess club, has triumphantly reopened just in time for its bicentenary. This revival marks a significant moment for the capital's culinary heritage, orchestrated by the veteran restaurateur Jeremy King, who describes the project as "the apotheosis of my career." King, renowned for transforming iconic venues like Le Caprice and the Ivy, has long pursued Simpson's, calling it "my heart's desire" due to its unique historical charm.
A Temple of Food with a Rich Legacy
Simpson's in the Strand was a bastion of tradition where change occurred only with compelling justification. Originally catering to chess enthusiasts, it introduced wheeled silver trolleys in the 19th century to serve roast beef and gravy without disrupting games, a practice retained long after chessboards vanished. In the 1860s, it famously rejected the French term "menu" in favour of "bill of fare" to underscore its British culinary focus, a detail preserved for generations.
Ornate, stately, and quintessentially English, the restaurant attracted literary and political giants such as Charles Dickens, P.G. Wodehouse, and Winston Churchill. Wodehouse famously dubbed it "a restful temple of food," where indulgence was encouraged, though notably, women were excluded from the main dining room until 1984. Despite its closure during the early Covid-19 pandemic, Simpson's remained a symbol of London's Georgian heritage, albeit one perceived by some as past its prime.
Jeremy King's Culinary Renaissance
Jeremy King, now 70, has not slowed down since his contentious departure from the Corbin & King portfolio in 2022, following a buyout by a Thai investment fund. He has since launched two new London restaurants, the Park and the Albany, with the latter occupying the former site of Le Caprice. However, reviving Simpson's represents a pinnacle achievement, driven by his passion for historical restaurants and two decades of courting its owners, the adjacent Savoy hotel.
"I have always enjoyed the romance of historical restaurants, but as the last of the grande dame restaurants in London, Simpson's was always going to be my heart's desire," King explained. "It allowed us to immerse guests in Edwardian opulence, with its generous architecture, multiple spaces, extravagant design, and sense of authority. Such institutions are unlikely to reappear due to prohibitive costs."
Restoring a Faded Icon
Critics and food writers have welcomed King's involvement, seeing him as the ideal custodian for a venue that had become somewhat stagnant. Jimi Famurewa noted that Simpson's had evolved into a "museum exhibit," frequented mainly for special occasions like Christmas rather than as a regular dining spot for Londoners. Ben McCormack added that the restaurant had grown outdated, catering overly to American tourists with subpar food, making reinvention urgent.
King acknowledges that even grand establishments can become "spent" and require rejuvenation. "It requires a great deal of determination and energy to rejuvenate, and hence they sometimes change hands, the baton is passed, and they emerge either as a celebration of history or completely changed," he said. "I am enjoying celebrating Simpson's."
The revival emphasises Edwardian opulence through polished wood, gilded mirrors, and glittering chandeliers, while maintaining the restaurant's storied ambiance. King's approach prioritises the guest experience, focusing on how diners feel rather than solely on culinary innovation, a philosophy that has defined his successful career.
A New Chapter for London's Dining Scene
The reopening of Simpson's in the Strand not only honours its bicentenary but also reinforces the resilience of London's restaurant industry. As a "temple of food" rises again, it blends heritage with modern vitality, offering a glimpse into a bygone era while appealing to contemporary sensibilities. For Jeremy King, this project is a heartfelt tribute to a landmark he has cherished for four decades, ensuring its legacy endures for future generations to savour.
