On Sark, a tiny Channel Island east of Guernsey, the high street known as The Avenue is bustling—but not with traffic. Instead, the sounds are of horse hooves, electric bikes, and chatting pedestrians. The island is car-free, accessible only by ferry or charter boat, and transport is limited to bikes, horses, or walking.
The only motorised ride is a tractor-towed trailer from the harbour, driven by Jim, who has called himself “King of the Hill” since 1984. “People love it,” he says. “It’s a break from what they’re used to.” Sark’s roads are dirt tracks, and the lack of motor vehicles and public lighting earned it the title of the world’s first “dark sky island” from the International Dark-Sky Association, making it ideal for stargazing—though a head torch is needed after dark.
Daytime adventuring reveals steep cliffs, hidden beaches, and coves with white sand and Caribbean-like waters. Visitors can dine on locally caught seafood at spots like Hathaways and Hugo’s Bar and Bistro, and stay in accommodations such as the Dixcart Hotel or La Moinerie Village. The island is about 3.5 miles long and 1.5 miles wide, with a resident population of around 500, rising to 1,000 in peak tourist season.
Sark’s history includes French and English ownership, pirates, and German occupation. In 1564, Elizabeth I granted a lease to Helier De Carteret, who divided the island into 40 tenements. The feudal system ended in 2008, but many descendants of the original families remain, like George Guille and his son Morgan, who run boat tours. Morgan, who left for a few years but returned, now leads trips his father ran for 43 years, pointing out guillemot colonies, puffins, and the neighbouring private island Brecqhou.
From the water, Sark’s high cliffs are imposing; on land, it feels romantic and calming. An e-bike allows exploration of the entire island in a day, with stops at almost deserted landscapes. Dixcart Bay is the easiest beach to access, and La Coupée—a three-metre-wide causeway—links the main island to “Little Sark” and the sandy La Grande Grève beach below. Writer Victor Hugo described Sark as “a sort of fairy castle, full of wonders.”
A regular visitor explains her return: “It’s a slower pace. Somewhere you relax, chill out. Just look at it!” Even on cloudy nights, the darkness invites stargazing, though the island’s charm is equally found in its timeless, car-free tranquillity.
