Finding the new Poon's restaurant in London's Somerset House is an adventure in itself. Navigating the grand neoclassical corridors, past seasonal attractions and exhibitions, can feel like a quest where lunch is the elusive prize. Yet, for those who persevere, the reward is a dining experience that marks a triumphant return for a legendary culinary name.
A Legacy Reborn in Somerset House
Hospitality runs deep in the Poon family. Amy Poon, the restaurant's eponymous owner, is the daughter of Bill and Cecilia Poon, the founders of the iconic Poon's establishments on Lisle Street and in Covent Garden. While her parents retired in 2003, Amy kept the flame alive, first by creating exceptional delivery dumplings and sauces during the lockdown. Now, she has stepped fully into the spotlight with her own venture.
The space itself is a revelation: understated, elegant, and bathed in natural light. The delicate fabrics and exquisite murals create a serene backdrop for what is, unequivocally, a cracker of a restaurant.
Culinary Deftness and Lightness of Touch
The menu at Poon's Somerset House showcases a refined approach often missing in UK Chinese dining. Dishes are characterised by a remarkable lightness and precision. The steamed pork neck fillet is a masterclass in balance, offering a silken texture lifted by ginger and a profound umami depth from shrimp paste.
Then there's the aptly named 'magic soup', a broth of pure, gentle nourishment with a mellow fruitfulness that invites you to drink deeply. The cold roast-duck salad is another highlight, combining crunch with a perfectly judged acidic note.
Standout Dishes and Must-Try Plates
Other menu stars demonstrate Amy Poon's innovative spirit. Her version of sesame prawn toast, dubbed 'The hill that Amy didn't die on', is so clean and expertly fried it feels gossamer-light. A sausage roll made with house wind-dried sausage features flaky pastry and a sublimely meaty filling.
Of course, the prawn dumplings are essential – five pert parcels delivering a delightful kick of chilli and Sichuan pepper. For a hearty finish, the claypot rice topped with hand-chopped beef and a raw egg prompts a friendly battle for the prized, brittle crust at the bottom of the pot.
An All-Round Exemplary Experience
The offering extends beyond the food. The wine list is interesting and well-priced, and there is also a notable selection of amazing teas. Service throughout is smart, efficient, and genuinely smiling.
In short, Poon's Somerset House is not just a successful new opening; it feels like the birth of a new modern Chinese classic. With prices around £40 per head, it offers remarkable value for cooking of this calibre. The Poons, it seems, have done it again.
Poon's Somerset House, Lancaster Place, London WC2; poonslondon.com
