In a surprising twist for the culinary world, the majority of guests filling the tables at Britain's first plant-based restaurant to hold a Michelin star are not, in fact, vegan. London's acclaimed eatery, Plates, reports that an overwhelming 95% of its diners still consume meat or fish outside its doors, signalling a major shift in the appeal of vegetable-forward fine dining.
A Deliberate Departure from the 'Vegan' Label
Chef-owner Kirk Haworth, who founded the London restaurant with his sister, consciously steers away from using the 'vegan' label to define his establishment. "I always say we're a fine dining restaurant. I don't say that we're vegan," Haworth explained in an interview with Reuters. His philosophy is straightforward: food should be judged on its flavour and artistry, not its ideology. He recounted the powerful moment a guest declared himself "a changed man" midway through his meal, a testament to the transformative experience Haworth aims to create.
Personal Journey to a Michelin Milestone
Haworth's approach is deeply rooted in personal necessity. A chef trained in Michelin-starred kitchens globally, his life and career trajectory changed over a decade ago after a diagnosis of Lyme disease. Bedridden for months, he began experimenting with a diet free from meat, dairy, and refined sugar to combat chronic inflammation. This personal culinary exploration evolved through years of pop-ups before culminating in the opening of Plates 18 months ago.
The restaurant's commitment to celebrating vegetables in their own right, without imitation, paid off earlier this year. Plates became the first entirely plant-based restaurant in Britain to be awarded a Michelin star, a landmark achievement that Haworth believes reflects a broader change in how chefs and critics perceive vegetable cookery. He firmly dismisses the idea that this is a fleeting trend.
Transcending a Niche in a Booked-Up Future
The success story is particularly notable given the UK's vegan demographic. While only around 3% of British adults identify as vegan, a growing curiosity is drawing a diverse crowd. The Michelin guide praised Plates for its "earthy, natural vibe" and its inventive, inviting dishes that grant vegetables the respect they deserve.
"We're not trying to replace meat or make things look like fish," Haworth stated, outlining his culinary ethos. "We showcase acidity, umami, and layers that make the palate feel alive." This focus on pure, compelling flavour has proven irresistible, with the restaurant currently fully booked until the end of March 2026.
Despite the accolade and demand, Haworth has no immediate plans for expansion. His ambition is instead fixed on refining the Plates experience and the tantalising possibility of earning a second star. "The process is the most fun part," he remarked with a smile, looking ahead to the next chapter of his plant-based fine dining revolution.
