In a bold and playful move, Clare Smyth, the celebrated chef behind the three-Michelin-starred Core, has unveiled a decidedly more relaxed venture. Corenucopia, nestled just off Sloane Square in London's SW1 postcode, offers a menu of indulgent, comfort-focused classics, served in a plush setting with a surprisingly raucous soundtrack of British dad rock.
The Core Concept: Decadence Meets Dad Rock
The restaurant presents a curious but compelling juxtaposition. Guests seated on expensive pale mustard velvet banquettes, surrounded by white tablecloths and a clientele that might include red-trousered Chelsea locals, find themselves listening to the strains of Status Quo's Rockin' All Over the World or Oasis's Supersonic. It's a deliberate step away from the hushed reverence of fine dining, aiming for a groovy, pocket-friendly atmosphere, though 'friendly' remains relative in this affluent neighbourhood.
While a tasting menu at Core costs £265 per person before drinks, Corenucopia operates à la carte. However, the bill can quickly escalate. Dishes include a crispy veal sweetbread starter for £32, turbot with vin jaune sauce for £64, and a single, albeit exquisite, profiterole for £22. The experience is completed with a chunky wine list and quirky touches like a separate, gilt-framed potato menu and a vinegar selection for the fish and chips.
A Menu of Cosseting, Calories-Be-Damned Delights
The food itself is a masterclass in luxurious comfort. This is cosseting, decadent, calories-be-damned cooking that delights in rich flavours and meticulous execution. Standout dishes from the menu include:
- Grilled olives on skewers with eel and timut pepper, described as absolute bliss.
- An ornate smoked salmon pâté topped with dill jelly and served with mini buttered crumpets.
- A magnificent mushroom pie (pithivier-style) filled with ceps, portobello, parmesan, spinach, and smoked egg yolk.
- The signature battered dover sole stuffed with lobster mousse, served with triple-cooked chips and minted peas for £52.
Even the side dishes are elevated, though not without critique: the hasselback potatoes cooked in beef fat were a joy, but £8.50 for just three was noted as somewhat ungenerous.
Pudding and the Ghost of Fine Dining
The dessert menu continues the theme of familiar treats reimagined. While a sherry trifle made with Bristol cream was deemed a little too light, lacking the traditional stodge, alternatives like a rum and treacle sticky toffee pudding or an 'Irish-misu' (a tiramisu spin using Jameson's Irish coffee) promise deeper indulgence. The review suggests that with a glass of 2010 Château Suduiraut sauternes alongside, the final bill can begin to approach the territory of Smyth's flagship.
Service remains formally attentive, a world away from casual servers squatting at tables. The establishment, while fun, has not abandoned all the trappings of its Michelin-adjacent pedigree. It occupies a unique space: a Chelsea bistro where Liam Gallagher might soundtrack your caviar-topped fried chicken, but you still wouldn't dream of putting your elbows on the table.
Corenucopia by Clare Smyth is open for lunch Friday to Sunday and dinner Wednesday to Sunday at 18-22 Holbein Place, London SW1. A meal is expected to cost around £80 per head à la carte, before drinks and service.
