After fifteen years of regular visits to the Maldives and eight separate holidays to the Indian Ocean paradise, seasoned traveller Sam Wylie-Harris has perfected the art of experiencing this tropical destination. Having explored numerous resorts across the archipelago, she shares invaluable insights for creating the perfect Maldivian escape, whether you're seeking active adventure, culinary excellence or pure relaxation.
The Culinary Transformation of Paradise
The Maldives has undergone a remarkable culinary evolution in recent years, transforming from a simple beach destination into a gastronomic hotspot. During her third visit to five-star Velassaru resort, Wylie-Harris experienced this firsthand at Etesian restaurant, where an impressive wine wall featuring more than 200 global labels sets the stage for sophisticated dining.
"As a drinks writer, I'm accustomed to glossy tasting rooms," she notes, "but finding such an extensive collection in the middle of the Indian Ocean was extraordinary." The establishment boasts rare vintages including Louis Roederer Cristal 2004 and Petrus Pomerol 1996 Bordeaux, demonstrating the elevated drinking experiences now available.
The seven-course menu at Etesian features gold medal-winning dishes, showcasing how Maldivian resorts are competing with top international restaurants. This culinary excellence represents a significant shift from the destination's previous focus solely on stunning natural beauty.
Choosing Your Perfect Island Escape
With 172 properties spread across 26 atolls, selecting the right resort can be overwhelming for first-time visitors. The Maldives has shed its reputation as exclusively a honeymoon destination and is projected to welcome two million tourists in 2024, offering options for various budgets and preferences.
"No longer purely a once-in-a-lifetime destination," Wylie-Harris explains, "the island nation now provides affordable luxury alongside money-is-no-object options." Many top properties now offer comprehensive all-inclusive packages covering wines, spirits, à la carte dining, excursions and snorkelling equipment.
For newcomers, she strongly recommends splitting your holiday between two resorts – one accessible by speedboat directly from the airport, and another requiring a seaplane transfer. This approach allows travellers to experience different aspects of Maldivian hospitality while maximising their holiday enjoyment.
Experiencing Velassaru's Island Magic
Located in the South Male Atoll, Velassaru offers a 25-minute speedboat transfer from Velana International Airport, making it ideal for the first leg of a twin-centre holiday. The 21-acre coral island provides multiple dining venues and entertainment options that showcase modern Maldivian resort life.
During their stay, Wylie-Harris and her husband Giles experienced the resort's National Maldives Day celebrations, complete with a special dinner buffet at Vela restaurant and a "Purely White" beach party featuring a resident DJ. "We danced barefoot under the stars and crescent moon," she recalls, highlighting the magical atmosphere.
Their favourite dining spot proved to be Sand restaurant, an oceanfront grill with private pavilions where guests can dine with their feet in the sand. A romantic beach dinner featuring grilled lobster and meticulous attention to detail created unforgettable memories, enhanced by surprise turndown services featuring elaborate towel art and flower petal decorations.
The resort's layout encourages exploration, with fragrant flora and fauna, sandy pathways framed by trailing bougainvillea, and multiple relaxation spots including Fen Bar with its beachfront views and Chill bar offering panoramic sunset vistas.
Kandolhu's Intimate Island Charm
For the second part of their holiday, the couple transferred by seaplane to Kandolhu, a bijou resort with just 30 villas that they first visited ten years ago. This intimate property proves that the Maldives offers more than just fly-and-flop holidays, with an enchanting island and spectacular house reef to explore.
Their Ocean Pool Villa provided infinite views of the Indian Ocean and featured both an open bathroom with shower and tub, plus a private plunge pool perfect for enjoying a glass of fizz. The resort's Ultimate Inclusions package delivers excellent value, stocking in-villa wine fridges with New and Old World wines, cava and prosecco.
With five restaurants offering diverse cuisines from Mediterranean to teppanyaki and Peruvian fusion, dining becomes an adventure in itself. The Peruvian restaurant became a lunchtime favourite, where chefs prepare tacos and ceviche to order, perfect with ice-cold beer.
Kandolhu also features a delightful spa with four treatment rooms named after flowers, where the couple enjoyed a 90-minute signature massage using hot stones to relieve remaining travel tension.
Making Paradise Accessible
While the Maldives might seem exclusively luxurious, Wylie-Harris argues that all-inclusive packages make the destination increasingly justifiable. "Every penny spent in the Maldives is an investment in health and happiness," she asserts, noting that more affordable options have allowed her to return repeatedly.
For those inspired to follow in her footsteps, Kuoni offers an all-inclusive, seven-night stay at Kandolhu Maldives from £3,999 per person, including flights, transfers and à la carte meals. Meanwhile, seven-night half-board stays at Velassaru Resort Maldives start at £3,099 per person with flights and transfers included.
The travel company also provides Maldives twin-centre breaks starting from £2,499 per person for eight nights, offering the perfect opportunity to experience multiple aspects of this Indian Ocean paradise.
