A stunning Baltic destination is poised to take the spotlight as European Capital of Culture in 2027, and it's an almost unheard-of spot that promises a unique blend of history and modernity. Liepāja, a port city nestled on the coast of the Baltic Sea in Latvia, will join Évora in Portugal as one of two cultural hotspots for that year. I embarked on a visit to this intriguing locale, accompanied by my grandmother, eager to uncover its secrets.
A Journey into History and Decay
On our first day, we arrived at what appeared to be an abandoned building, crumbling before our very eyes. Our guide announced, 'We've arrived,' leaving me utterly confused. Could this really be the most popular tourist spot in the city? As I soon discovered, Liepāja not only has plenty going on but also boasts a fascinating history intertwined with one of the most influential and difficult periods of the past.
The Northern Fort: A Dystopian Marvel
At the city's Northern Fort, part of the Liepāja Fortress, a labyrinth of bunkers dating back to the 19th century forms part of the Karosta region. Originally established to protect the navy base from potential enemy attacks, this area was closed military territory during the Soviet occupation of Latvia. Today, the ruins are open to the public, yet due to their coastal location on the Baltic Sea, they seem to be quite literally disintegrating into the water. It's a sight to behold, feeling like a step into a dystopian sci-fi film. Visiting the Northern Fort is a fascinating experience, as the former war bunkers slant downwards, offering a poignant glimpse into the past.
The Paradox of Soviet and Sacred
The influence of the Soviet era is pervasive throughout Liepāja. The city presents a strange dichotomy: somewhat bleak in parts, yet with pockets of extreme beauty. In areas like the Baltic coast, the old town, and historic churches, it is truly stunning, ranking among the prettiest I've encountered. What makes Liepāja unique is that it defies easy categorization. It is neither entirely grey and Soviet nor completely modern, embodying a captivating paradox.
While driving through the city, we stumbled upon a landscape that perfectly captures this essence. We approached an ugly box building, only to notice that right behind it stood an imposing, magnificent, golden-ornamented Russian Orthodox church. Our guide aptly described it as 'the paradox of the Orthodox.' The Naval Orthodox Cathedral of Saint Nicholas, viewed up close, is truly magnificent. Its beauty is accentuated by the contrasting surroundings, where people trudge through snow towards impenetrable Soviet apartment blocks adjacent to worshippers entering the church.
Modern Vibrancy and Cultural Gems
While history is undoubtedly one of Liepāja's huge appeals as a capital of culture, there is a modern lifestyle to explore as well. The crown jewel of Liepāja today is its concert hall, often dubbed an 'Aperol Spritz' concert hall due to its warm orange hue, visible from both inside and out. Officially known as the 'Great Amber' concert hall, it opened in 2015 and features excellent acoustics, modern architectural design, and multi-purpose functionality, rivaling other music venues across Europe and winning several awards.
Another highlight is the 17th-19th century interior museum 'Madame Hoyer's Guest House,' which offers an immersive journey back in time. The museum's inn-style restaurant is truly authentic, complete with staff in period dress. Seeking refuge from the cold, we also visited the city's market. Designed in the Art Nouveau style, Peter's Market pavilion is one of the most beautiful market pavilions in Europe, first opened in 1910. As Liepāja's largest and Latvia's second largest market, it offers a wide assortment of in-season fruit, vegetables, forest products, flowers, plants, and other farm produce. I was particularly fixated on the baked goods and pastries, some costing just 60 cents (50p), providing unbeatable value.
Culinary Delights and Local Flavours
Our gastronomic experiences continued with a drive to a pretty park, covered in almost untouched snow, unlike the slush along main streets. Lunch at Parka Paviljons consisted of warming soup and outstanding hot food, including beef cheeks, tomato soup, lamb soup, and cod. The highlight, however, came later that night at the newly opened restaurant RO Bread, featuring a short menu from a phenomenal rising star Latvian chef. We opted for the Arctic char and universally agreed it was the best fish we had ever tasted, thanks to its fantastic quality, flavour, and texture. RO Bread's menu changes with the seasons, focusing on local products and modern flavour combinations, and the restaurant bakes its own natural sourdough bread, well worth a taste. The interiors are magical, with a snowy backdrop and twinkling lights adding to the ambiance.
Travel Tips and Final Thoughts
Travel to Latvia should not be overlooked; beyond its capital, Riga, there are numerous small towns and communities offering unique experiences. To reach Liepāja, fly to Riga Airport—with flights from London Gatwick to Riga starting from £58 with AirBaltic—and then take a bus, train, or drive to the city. Liepāja might not be the best-known or prettiest city in Latvia, but its history is as intriguing as its modern landscape. It is equal parts dystopia, music hotspot, a step back in time, and a real part of the cultural future of Europe. In essence, it is absolutely a paradox, making it a compelling destination for cultural explorers.
