Bundled in what felt like an entire wardrobe, I stood in Finnish Lapland questioning my life choices. The outfit consisted of thermal base layers, leather trousers, thermal overalls, a scarf, hat, multiple sock pairs, snow boots, two pairs of gloves, and a long quilted coat zipped to my nose. ‘Could I BE wearing any more clothes?’ I thought, channelling Joey from Friends. Yet, despite the Michelin-man ensemble, my hands and feet were frozen blocks, and my eyelashes had iced over completely.
A Deep Freeze Disrupts Arctic Adventures
I was in Rovaniemi, the capital of Finnish Lapland, during a severe cold snap where the mercury had plunged to a brutal -35°C (-31°F). The cold was so intense it later forced one of Lapland’s two airports to close, stranding thousands of British travellers. This extreme weather also reached the region’s famous huskies. Upon arriving at the Apukka Resort for a pre-booked husky-sledding experience via GetYourGuide, we received disappointing news: it was too cold for the dogs to run.
Thankfully, a full refund was offered, along with a chance to meet the excited pups. As we approached, the huskies bounded over, barking and jumping. One managed to land a slobbery lick on my face, despite my extensive layers. The sight of some dogs wearing little jumpers and lifting their paws off the frozen ground hammered home the severity of the cold—conditions too harsh even for wildlife bred for the Arctic. The entire weekend passed without a single sighting of birds or other animals.
Snowmobiling on the Edge of Madness
Our original snowmobiling booking was also cancelled, though we managed to rebook a discounted slot with Apukka. When we finally set out, the seasoned staff called us ‘mad’ for attempting it. Our guide confessed, ‘I’ve never actually snowmobiled in weather like this.’ The wind bit agonisingly into any exposed skin, like my nose, as I clung to my husband driving our vehicle. We weaved through a pristine, frozen landscape straight off a Christmas card, though one rider behind us briefly slid off their machine.
Fearful of frostbite—my hand had turned blue in under a minute the previous day when I removed a mitten—I didn’t dare take photos. The experience was broken into three short rides over two hours, punctuated by welcome stops at a teepee with a campfire and hot lingonberry juice. Locals insisted hot drinks were the best way to stay warm, even if it left me feeling queasy on the bumpy snowmobile ride afterwards.
Reindeer, Santa, and the Ultimate Light Show
Local cuisine heavily featured reindeer meat, which I sampled in steak form at the upmarket Sky Kitchen, despite having met Rudolph and his friends at Santa Claus Village earlier that day. The real purpose of our trip, however, wasn’t to prolong Christmas but to witness the Northern Lights. We booked a Nordic Adventures tour through GetYourGuide for €80 (£69) per person, which included a Lappish barbecue.
Keeping expectations low after a fleeting sighting in Iceland years ago, we were stunned when our guide, Gigi, told us to get our phones ready immediately upon arrival at the remote site. Looking up, we saw the aurora borealis rippling and dancing across the sky with unreal clarity. Gigi explained the -35°C temperature helped, as less moisture in the air meant clearer skies. Transfixed, I forgot the cold entirely.
The magical evening was capped with a campfire meal of sausages, salmon soup, and ginger biscuit s’mores. This spectacular display more than compensated for the frostbite risk and disrupted plans, making the short weekend in Lapland an unforgettable, if intensely chilly, adventure.
TRAVEL FACTS: Hayley and her husband stayed at the Postmaster Hotel in Rovaniemi (prices from £174/night). Experiences were hosted by GetYourGuide. Return flights from London Stansted to Rovaniemi with Ryanair start at £44.
