Jamie Oliver's London Restaurant: A Culinary Journey Tested
Jamie Oliver stands as a culinary icon in Britain, having shaped the nation's food landscape for over two decades. From his early days on The Naked Chef to his influential school dinner campaigns, he has become a household name. As a diner in my mid-20s, I recall his impact vividly, particularly how he championed healthier options in school canteens. Yet, I had never personally sampled his restaurant offerings until now.
I recently visited his establishment on Catherine Street in London, which opened in 2023 with a promise to reimagine British classics through an upscale lens. The restaurant's website describes it as "a reflection of Jamie's journey", from his roots in his parents' Essex pub to his status as a celebrated chef. The venue exudes a distinctly British charm, but does it deliver value for money? Here is my comprehensive assessment.
Starters: A Mixed Beginning
We began with the bread and butter, priced at £5.50. The loaf featured a light, stretchy interior and a firm, chewy crust, which was pleasant but unremarkable. The butter lacked flavour, though it spread easily. For the cost, we received about six slices, which felt steep; I believe a bread basket should be complimentary or at most £3. Similarly, a bottle of still water cost £4.50, adding to the bill.
My companion noted, "The bread wasn't good or bad, it was just okay. However, it was quite tough and chewy." The standout, however, was the scotch egg. Described on the menu with "Stornoway Black Pudding, Oozy Cacklebean Egg, and Mustard Mayo", it was beautifully presented with a central egg atop sauce and salad leaves.
As someone not typically fond of eggs, I found this dish delightful. The black pudding offered a deep, robust flavour that paired excellently with the mustard accompaniment. I only managed half due to the runny egg, but for egg enthusiasts, this is a must-try. We rated it an average of eight out of 10.
Mains: Hits and Misses
We opted for quintessential British dishes: fish and chips at £25 and the £27 cottage pie. The fish and chips included beer-battered hake, mushy peas, pickled wally and onion, curry sauce, and house chips. The fish was perfectly crisp—not dry or tough—with a delicate, non-fishy flavour. The mushy peas had a pleasant sharpness, and the tartar sauce added a zingy touch.
However, the curry sauce disappointed, and the chips were lukewarm. My companion remarked, "The fish and mushy peas were delicious. The seasoning on the fish was really nice; every bite was a pleasant experience. The chips weren't good; they were not hot enough, and they felt a bit stale." We gave this dish a seven out of 10.
The cottage pie, however, was a letdown. Listed as "Beef Shin, Featherblade & Aged Rib Ragù, Mustard Mash & Bone Marrow Top, Red Wine Gravy", it initially impressed with velvety, rich mash and a golden crust. Yet, it was overly salty, and the mustard flavour became overwhelming, possibly due to its earlier appearance in the scotch egg. It came with well-seasoned broccoli, albeit in large pieces.
The most absurd element was a large bone in the centre, which reduced the already modest portion significantly. With substantial chunks of meat—some tough, others succulent—there simply wasn't enough to justify £27. My companion said, "The cottage pie was too tough and chewy. The flavour was very average and didn't justify the price." We awarded it a disheartening 4.5 out of 10.
Dessert and Overall Experience
We shared a jammy sponge with custard for £8. The dessert was peculiar, with a texture akin to sticky toffee pudding but with a basic steamed sponge and berry jam. The custard was pleasant though lumpy, and the sponge was airy with a sharp, punchy jam. We felt there was perhaps too much jam for balance, but it served as a decent indulgence, earning a six out of 10.
Overall, I would rate the restaurant a six out of 10. The staff were exceptionally welcoming and attentive, with special mention to Pamela for her warmth and enthusiasm. The interior design is striking, with two distinct areas and background music at a comfortable volume. Drinks were pricey, but we enjoyed a glass of white wine and a toffee apple cider throughout the evening.
I would return, particularly with friends or for a romantic evening, as the atmosphere is inviting. While the costs aren't outrageous for upscale dining, I would be tempted to explore other menu items next time.
