When Flanders’ food is mentioned, the first thing that comes to mind is frites. Which is fine because chips are fantastic, but there’s more to the Belgian region’s cuisine than fried potatoes, especially in Ghent. Here, a bright, modern food scene is flourishing among the historic spires – offering a compelling alternative to southern Europe’s blistering heat.
I stayed in the wallet-friendly Ibis Budget hotel, where bikes are helpfully available to rent. In Ghent, this is a must. Cycling is by far the easiest way to get about, and it’s safe here too, since cyclists have right of way over cars and there are separate cycle paths connecting every street in the city.
Part of Ghent’s charm is its thriving independent creative scenes. Beer, food, art, wine, fashion and music are all part of the city’s unexpectedly cool vibe. Wander through the cobbled streets and you’ll see churches and grand houses standing alongside local jewellery designers and boutiques full of unique pieces, gift shops full of handmade crafts, and galleries.
If you’re into drinking, tours on the scenic craft beer route incorporate Ghent’s architecture with its independent breweries. Unlike other cities in Flanders, most make modern beer styles. It’s well worth a trip to breweries such as Stroom or Dok to taste your way through their lineups and take in the art displayed on their walls. Stroom in particular hosts a new local artist in their gallery each month.
Be sure to snag a reservation at Chubby Cheeks, an adorably named restaurant and bar in the centre of the city. It’s renowned for its cocktails, and serves endlessly exciting small plates and natural wines pulled from a carefully curated list. Forget fine dining, this feels like you’re the guest of honour at a decadent house party with music to match.
Ghent has 12 museums, which for a city of its size is quite remarkable. There’s modern art at the SMAK, local history at the STAM city museum, plus the House of Alijn, a curious record of Flanders daily life. The best way to explore these is with a Ghent Card, which offers free travel across the city and entry to numerous attractions.
