Nestled in the heart of Colorado Springs, the grand, century-old pink-brick Colorado Springs Hotel holds tales as rich as its history, largely thanks to its legendary founder and owner, Spencer Penrose. By all accounts, Penrose was a man who enjoyed his liquor, a trait that led to some extraordinary antics, especially during the Prohibition era.
The Unforgettable Legacy of Spencer Penrose
Penrose, who possessed only one eye, was famously prepared for his mornings after. He kept two spare glass eyes, one crafted to be deliberately bloodshot to match his real eye when suffering from a proper hangover. His defiance of Prohibition was legendary; he hosted lavish parties for friends shipped in from New York by train, where they would drink litres of what was euphemistically labelled 'cologne'. His personal stash of alcohol was reputedly the size of a swimming pool – and was ingeniously hidden beneath the hotel's actual swimming pool.
Yet, the allure of this Italianate grand dame extends far beyond its spirited past. The hotel boasts gleaming pools, lush (if pricey) cuisine, and cracking views of the Rockies. It is also home to the authentic, transplanted London pub, The Golden Bee, once visited by Prince Harry. For history buffs, the basement's 'bottle alley' displays the last bottle of wine ever drunk by President George W. Bush before he went teetotal, complete with his signature on the label.
Launching a Colorado Adventure from the Springs
Colorado Springs serves as a perfect launchpad for exploring the state's diverse wonders. A short journey leads to the quirky former mining town of Manitou Springs in the Rocky Mountain foothills. Here, visitors find the Pikes Peak Cog Railway, a historic line originally built a century ago to attract wealthy tourists from the East Coast and Europe. Now owned by the Colorado Springs Hotel, it remains one of America's great tourist attractions.
The railway offers a breathtaking ascent up one of the Rockies' most iconic peaks. Passengers board the charming, toy-like train and slowly climb the slopes, where bald eagles, beavers, elk, and bears might be spotted. Botanists can look for the ancient bristlecone pine and vast quaking aspen groves. At the 4,300-metre summit, the 360-degree views are staggering. A unique treat awaits: Pikes Peak donuts, famed for their extra crispiness due to the high-altitude frying temperature.
From Dunes to Denver: The Heart of Colorado
Venturing south, the landscape opens into the vast, beautiful San Luis Valley, the world's largest alpine valley. Here lies the remote Zapata Ranch, bordering the Great Sand Dunes National Park. This lesser-visited park offers a rare chance to hire horses and trek into the towering dunes, explore gulches, and discover abandoned mining villages with tales of Gold Rush romance and murder.
Back at the ranch, dinners are served on a large communal table alongside international guests, with the surrounding wilderness providing a backdrop of coyotes, owls, and deer. The menu proudly features local produce like smoked trout, juicy bison burgers, and garden-grown vegetables.
A drive north on the interstate leads to Denver, a likeable major city with a sleek downtown and well-preserved Victorian-era old town. Its history is colourful, from streets once lined with bordellos (many now cannabis dispensaries) to Prohibition-era bars frequented by Jack Kerouac, Bob Dylan, and the Beat Generation. The city is also a haven for craft beer, with the oldest microbrewery, Wynkoop, being a favourite of Barack Obama.
The Grand Finale: Aboard the Rocky Mountaineer USA
The journey culminates with the Rocky Mountaineer USA, a new, luxurious train service that snakes between Denver, Colorado, and Moab, Utah, during the summer. This peerless experience winds through the loftiest reaches of the Rockies on a historic, vertiginous mining railroad route.
Over two days, passengers in glass-domed carriages are treated to phenomenal scenery: cataracts, snowfields, pine forests, and paradisiacal valleys. The service includes fine cocktails, like Manhattans and Old Fashioneds, served at your seat. The first night is spent in Glenwood Springs, home to the world's largest hot springs and the famously haunted Hotel Colorado, once frequented by Al Capone and Teddy Roosevelt.
The second day reveals the red rock deserts of Utah, where the surprising local tradition of 'mooning' the train adds to the quirky charm. The landscape—featuring bald eagles, whitewater kayakers, and elk in trout-filled rivers—is so spectacular it can silence a carriage full of merry travellers, leaving them in total, awe-struck silence. It is a fitting end to a tour of Colorado's majestic and unforgettable wonders.
