Nestled on the rugged Northumbrian coastline, the picturesque village of Boulmer offers a captivating escape that feels remarkably untouched by the modern world. This serene spot, located just six miles east of the bustling market town of Alnwick, presents a stark and peaceful contrast to the more developed neighbouring village of Alnmouth.
A Scene Preserved in Time
Boulmer is celebrated as one of Northumberland's last authentic fishing communities, with a population likely under 120 residents. Its charm lies in a single, long row of cottages and houses that gaze directly out over the North Sea. The village's iconic blue coble fishing boats, a regional hallmark for centuries, are still used by local fishermen today.
Interestingly, Boulmer lacks a formal harbour. Instead, boats are hauled onto the shore by tractors, a traditional practice that adds to its unique character. This setup makes the shoreline ideal for rock pooling and bracing coastal walks, offering visitors a genuine taste of maritime life.
History of Smugglers and RAF Wings
Beneath its tranquil surface, Boulmer harbours a nefarious past as a notorious smuggling hub. During the 18th and 19th centuries, pirates and smugglers from across Northumberland and Scotland frequented the village to trade illicit goods. The Fishing Boat Inn served as the epicentre for this unlawful activity, with landlords reportedly accommodating the criminals.
This dark history is linked to figures like William Faa, the so-called 'King of the Gypsies' and one of Britain's most infamous smugglers, who lived just 35 miles away in the Scottish village of Kirk Yetholm. The 20th century brought a different kind of notoriety with the establishment of RAF Boulmer during World War II. Located on the village outskirts, the base remains a crucial part of the UK's defence and a key search and rescue station for the Royal Air Force.
The Perfect Tranquil Getaway
For travellers seeking solitude away from crowded tourist hotspots, Boulmer is an ideal destination. It promises sweeping sea views, fresh air, and profound peace. However, visitors should be prepared for limited amenities. The Fishing Boat Inn stands as the sole pub and eatery, and there are no retail shops in the village itself.
For supplies or a shopping trip, one must travel roughly a mile and a half to Longhoughton or 13 miles to Alnwick. A limited bus service operates through Boulmer, so those relying on public transport are advised to check schedules meticulously before their journey.
Despite the arrival of the RAF and the passage of time, little has changed in Boulmer over the last hundred years. It remains a beautifully preserved, timeless fragment of Britain's coastal heritage, where the past feels palpably close and the pace of life is dictated by the sea.
