It's enough to make you splutter into your morning coffee. Imagine paying more than £100 for breakfast? Yet that's precisely the price tag attached to what the Four Seasons Hotel London at Park Lane is billing as the capital's inaugural Michelin-starred breakfast tasting menu.
A Posh Start to the Day at Pavyllon
Served within the elegant confines of the Pavyllon restaurant, this lavish morning offering is overseen by the globally celebrated chef Yannick Alleno, who boasts an impressive collection of seventeen Michelin stars to his name. The core five-course experience is priced at £70, but the full indulgence requires adding a £20 juice pairing and the standard 15 percent service charge, comfortably propelling the total cost north of the £100 mark. For those seeking ultimate extravagance, optional caviar is available at £5 per gram.
Contextual Extravagance on Park Lane
This price point feels particularly striking when considering nearby alternatives. Just a short stroll away, The Ritz offers a simple bowl of cereal for £9, while a full English breakfast at the illustrious Claridge's will 'only' set you back £40. For many, a treat might be avocado on toast—the notion of a multi-course spectacle before the first coffee seems almost daunting.
Nevertheless, in the spirit of culinary investigation, I took a seat at Pavyllon's counter alongside my gourmand son, Christian, to observe the open kitchen's morning preparations. Pavyllon London is boldly redefining morning dining with this unprecedented offering.
A Journey Through the Courses
The experience commences with a slice of Epiphany cake from the Viennoiserie selection, accompanied by a cream-topped cold moka infused with Szechuan pepper, nutmeg, and orange syrup. An undeniably sophisticated start, reminiscent of a high-end patisserie.
The following course, however, elevates the affair: a lobster croast—a toasted croissant filled with delicate flavours of lobster, egg, tarragon, chervil, mustard, rocket, and parmesan. My son was moved to rhapsody, declaring it potentially his 'favourite breakfast dish of all time.'
Highlight Dishes and Decadent Touches
After a refreshing exotic chia pudding paired with an apple and celery palate cleanser, the standout dish arrived: eggs royale on an ethereally light muffin. Senior sous chef Nicholas Bussi applied the gossamer hollandaise from a canister before spooning on a generous £25 worth of caviar, toasted with a kir royale made from beetroot juice and alcohol-free sparkling wine.
Christian selected the ravioli, filled with black pudding, duxelles mushroom, and yolk, surrounded by a rich sausage reduction with chorizo and parsley. Chef Bussi noted the dish packs around 560 calories—a substantial start by any measure.
The meal concluded with a refined take on French toast, its sweetness accentuated by a juice of coconut apple extract blended with apple cider vinegar. It was, without doubt, the most exceptional breakfast we have ever experienced.
Chef's Vision and Guest Verdict
Chef Yannick Alleno explains the philosophy behind the menu: 'Diners are moving away from rigid, evening-only fine dining, and are looking for experiences that feel relaxed yet refined, making breakfast the perfect canvas.'
This sentiment was echoed by fellow diners Lui and Sofie Hovgaard, visiting from Copenhagen where Lui works as a chef. 'It's a fun way to eat breakfast, and the drinks pairing was good,' he remarked.
The Michelin Star Question
An interesting caveat arises: while the restaurant holds a Michelin star, the accolade is awarded to the establishment, not to a specific meal. A Michelin Guide spokesman clarified, 'We don't track this metric so are unable to validate it.' Therefore, the menu is served in a Michelin-starred venue, rather than being a 'starred' breakfast per se.
So, the final assessment? It is not technically a Michelin-starred meal, and the price is undoubtedly eye-watering. Yet, for those seeking an unparalleled morning experience, it may just be worth every penny. It certainly raises the breakfast bar to dazzling new heights.
