The dizzying rise and subsequent stumble of the man known as Salt Bae presents a modern parable of internet fame. Nusret Gökçe, the Turkish butcher turned global celebrity, is now grappling with significant financial setbacks and a tarnished brand, a far cry from his viral peak in 2017.
From Butcher's Apprentice to Global Phenomenon
Nusret Gökçe's story began humbly. Born into poverty in eastern Turkey, he left formal education at just 11 years old to train as a butcher's apprentice. Decades of hard work culminated in his first restaurant in Istanbul, but it was a mere six-second clip in 2017 that changed everything. A video of his flamboyant, wrist-dipping method of seasoning a steak catapulted him to international stardom, earning him the moniker "Salt Bae".
His new-found fame fuelled a rapid expansion. The Nusr-Et steakhouse brand spread across the globe, with outlets opening in Europe, the Middle East, the United States, and the United Kingdom. A-listers, footballers, and influencers flocked to his venues, seemingly undeterred by astronomical prices for the chance to be served by the meme-made-man.
The High Cost of Excess and Mounting Controversies
The very extravagance that defined his brand soon became its Achilles' heel. The London branch in Knightsbridge became infamous for eye-watering bills, with steaks costing hundreds of pounds and some parties spending tens of thousands. Critics and customers began to revolt, labelling the experience as overpriced and underwhelming, with complaints about pushy staff and food that failed to live up to the theatrical spectacle.
Controversy followed Gökçe beyond the menu. He faced accusations of withholding staff tips and breaching Covid-19 safety protocols. His decision to insert himself into Argentina's 2022 World Cup celebrations, touching the trophy and attempting selfies with players like Lionel Messi, was widely criticised as gauche and attention-seeking.
Financial Fallout and Legal Defeats
The financial impact is now starkly evident. Despite initial success, the UK operation of Nusr-Et recently reported losses of more than £5 million, even after attempts to cut prices and lure customers back.
The situation in the United States is even more dire. One by one, locations in New York, Boston, Dallas, Las Vegas, and Beverly Hills have shut their doors, leaving just two restaurants operational in the entire country. In a further blow, Gökçe recently lost a two-year legal battle to trademark the word "SALT" in the UK. The tribunal ruled the term too generic and ordered his company to pay costs.
Is the Salt Shaker Empty?
Despite these significant setbacks, Salt Bae is not completely washed up. He maintains a formidable social media presence with over 50 million Instagram followers, and his meat-cutting videos still garner millions of views. He continues to open and operate restaurants in Turkey, Europe, and the Middle East.
However, the narrative has irrevocably shifted. The story of Salt Bae now serves as a cautionary tale about the fleeting nature of viral fame and the dangers of building a luxury empire on a meme, where the spectacle can eventually overshadow the substance, leaving even the most seasoned businesses feeling the pinch.
