A dramatic reversal of fortunes is reshaping the British high street, with once-frumpy Marks & Spencer now crowned as cool by Generation Z, while former teen favourites like New Look and Jack Wills are dismissed as relics of the past.
The High Street's Dramatic Role Reversal
Cast your mind back to the early 2010s, when the height of fashion for trend-savvy teens was a branded Jack Wills hoodie paired with jeggings from New Look. Shoppers flocked for peplum dresses and skinny jeans, actively avoiding the neighbouring Marks & Spencer, which was widely perceived as 'grannyish'. The retailer's own chief executive once candidly admitted its clothing suffered from a reputation for 'frumpiness'.
Today, the tables have turned completely. Social media platforms, particularly TikTok, are now awash with declarations that M&S is officially 'cool'. Conversely, New Look is mockingly dubbed 'Old Look', and brands like Jack Wills and Superdry are considered passé by the influential Gen Z demographic.
The Struggle of Former Favourites
The changing tides have had severe commercial consequences. New Look has been forced to shut 13 stores in the UK this year, with a further 28 closing in the Republic of Ireland. Fashion expert and stylist Rochelle White attributes the chain's downfall to a critical failure to maintain 'young brand energy'. She argues New Look ignored fast-moving trends, favouring more 'traditional' looks, and was left behind by the direct-to-consumer power of TikTok and influencer culture.
This sentiment is echoed across social media, where users openly question the brand's relevance. One viral TikTok video asked, 'Does anyone shop in New Look anymore?', while another user toured a store pointing out 'abominations'. Comments on such posts describe the retailer's offerings as resembling a 'retirement home' or a 'pensioner's charity shop'.
Jack Wills, which peaked in the 2010s, is facing similar struggles. The brand, bought out of administration in 2019, has seen its store count drop from 32 to 24 and its workforce shrink significantly. Its pre-tax profit halved from £10.1 million to £4.9 million in a year. On TikTok, users post nostalgic, mocking videos dressed in the brand's iconic 2009-era hoodies and jeggings.
Superdry, once a billion-pound brand endorsed by celebrities, is also fighting to stay afloat, with its logo-heavy gear now often labelled a 'dad brand'. It is reportedly burning through around £1 million a week.
The M&S Metamorphosis: From Frumpy to Fashionable
In stark contrast, Marks & Spencer's remarkable resurgence is credited to a strategic overhaul. The retailer has successfully focused on capturing trends and adopting a faster fashion model, getting new items from design to shop floor in as little as a month. This allows it to cater to a younger audience without alienating its traditional customer base.
Key to this transformation was the hiring of Maddy Evans, former fashion director of Topshop, as head of buying in 2019 (later promoted to director of womenswear). Her influence has helped M&S fill the void left by Topshop's demise with must-have, trend-led pieces. Celebrity collaborations, like those with Sienna Miller, have further boosted its contemporary image.
The result is clear on social media, where UK influencers like Gemma Talbot and Alice Spearing post hauls and declare themselves 'obsessed' with M&S clothing, solidifying its new-found status as a Gen Z-approved destination.
Expert Verdict on the Future
Rochelle White explains that New Look's core issue is a lack of cultural relevance and speed. 'They haven't evolved and understood consumers, especially Zillennials and Gen Z,' she told the Daily Mail. 'The fashion cycles and the speed at which they look for it, New Look just haven't kept up.'
She suggests recovery is possible if brands rebuild their personality, become culturally relevant, and forge strong partnerships with the right influencers and creators. Meanwhile, M&S's Evans stated their focus is on 'supercharging newness' and investing in 'trend-led pieces our customers want', while maintaining the value they are trusted for.
This retail revolution underscores a brutal new reality for the UK high street: in the age of social media, failing to evolve at the speed of your youngest customer can swiftly turn yesterday's cool into today's uncool.
