Chef Julian Pizer, best known in Manchester for co-founding the popular eatery Another Hand, has launched a new fine-dining concept at Portfolio, the UK's first Champagne boutique. His journey began 11,000 miles away in Auckland, New Zealand, and he once feared moving to Manchester was a massive mistake.
A Tale of Two Cities
Auckland and Manchester share more similarities than one might think. Both are major economic hubs with comparable metropolitan populations, celebrated as centres for culture, sports, and music. They are both in the north, support beloved 'Blues' teams, and host massive annual arts and music festivals. Regarding food and drink, both cities have an interesting relationship with the Michelin Guide. For years, Manchester lacked stars, but now boasts two, along with many Michelin-recommended establishments. New Zealand, however, has never had a star, as the guide only recently expanded into Oceania for the first time.
From Skateboarder to Chef
Julian Pizer's culinary career began unexpectedly after a skateboarding accident ended his sponsored career. At 16, he was kicked out of school and started working at a Jewish deli in Auckland as an apprentice baker. "It was this part that made me want to pursue a career in cooking - that sparked the flame," he recalls. He later moved to restaurants and worked his way up in a 300-cover seafood restaurant, learning about fine dining.
Moving to Manchester
After leaving New Zealand in 2011 and travelling, Julian moved to the UK in 2017, settling in Manchester. "When I first arrived I thought I made a massive mistake. The fine dining scene in Manchester was pretty dire," he says. After temp work and a brief return to New Zealand, he landed a job at Pier Eight at The Lowry, followed by stints at Cottonopolis and Edinburgh Castle. There, he met future collaborators for 3 Hands Deli and Another Hand.
Another Hand's Success
Another Hand opened just eight months before racking up awards and earning a spot in the Michelin Inspectors' Favourite New Restaurants. The neighbourhood-style restaurant on Deansgate Mews focuses on sharing plates made with produce from local ethical growers.
Portfolio: A New Chapter
Julian's latest venture, Portfolio on Bridge Street, is a Champagne boutique and bar with over 250 exceptional Champagnes. He has now launched a fine-dining snack concept, reimagining the traditional tasting menu. "I've always wanted to move back to doing a more fine-dining style of foods with more technique," he explains. The menu focuses entirely on the best part of any tasting menu: the snacks. Each dish is a single, perfectly balanced mouthful.
Dishes include an inventive take on artichokes with coffee, rum and butter; whole duck with chocolate mole and sour cherry; and beetroot rose with Dexter beef tartare and horseradish. Guests can choose between 14-course (£135pp) and 18-course (£155pp) menus, with optional Champagne pairings. A 10-course lunch menu is served at £75pp with optional wine pairing.
Michelin Stars and Manchester's Dining Scene
Reflecting on Michelin stars, Julian says, "For so long Michelin has been the golden standard... it can be so inspirational but so damaging. Manchester has survived so long without them and you don't need a star to say it's good. However, it does bring people from outside a city to visit." He adds, "It's an incredibly exciting time for Manchester. There are more talented chefs than ever backing themselves and doing their own thing."
Portfolio operates as a bar alongside the restaurant, with a dedicated snack menu available in the bar for a more casual experience. "It's incredibly exciting. In many ways, it's what I've always wanted to do," Julian concludes.
