Annabelle Thorpe found Rannoch Moor in the Scottish Highlands to be one of the most atmospheric landscapes on her road trip. From Sussex to Scotland, her 1,600-mile journey through four centuries of British holidays proved an eye-opener.
A Journey Through Time and Place
Starting from her Sussex home, Thorpe traveled to the wilds of Scotland, taking in Eryri (Snowdonia), Lancashire, the Lake District, and Yorkshire. Her research trip for a book tracing 400 years of British holidays revealed a homeland she barely knew. As a southerner, the northern half of Britain was a discovery.
Eryri and Llandudno: Artists and Victorian Splendor
Her first stop was Eryri, where the Royal Oak hotel in Betws-y-Coed had hosted artists like JMW Turner since the late 18th century. Fifty years later, it became the hub of the country's first artists' colony, drawn by the dramatic beauty of the Gwydir Forest and the Glyderau peaks. Hotel manager Katie Valentine noted that artists moved further up the valley when the railway opened in 1868, grumbling about overtourism—a trend not new to the modern era.
From Eryri, a short hop to Llandudno revealed a pristine beach town like a Victorian theme park. Judith Phillips of Llandudno Museum explained that the Mostyn family, who built the town in the mid-19th century, still control much of it, dictating everything from hotel colors to businesses on the promenade. The museum highlighted that much of history resides in small, volunteer-run local museums.
Lancashire and Blackpool: Contrasts and Memories
Driving to Lancashire along the North Wales Expressway, Thorpe enjoyed views of the Irish Sea. At the Armitt Library in Ambleside, she saw early guidebooks to the Lake District by Thomas West and William Wordsworth. At Blair Castle, she viewed Queen Victoria's handwritten letters, including a recipe for potato salad. In Blackburn, Richard Croisdale, a 90-year-old volunteer, shared stories of Wakes Week holidays in Blackpool.
Blackpool confounded expectations. Arriving on a Friday night, the promenade buzzed with lights and life. Claire Smith, co-owner of Number One South Beach B&B, described the town as one of extremes: pockets of joy next to caverns of woe. Her husband Mark recalled 1970s Blackpool, when guests queued for bathrooms and landladies locked doors between meals. Despite deprivation, the Pleasure Beach on a Sunday morning was filled with families and giddy excitement.
Scotland: The Ultimate Revelation
Beyond the seaside, Scotland blew Thorpe's mind. Following in the footsteps of William and Dorothy Wordsworth, she headed up Loch Lomond's western flank. Dusk fell as she crossed Rannoch Moor, a silent moonscape, then saw great mountains rising to guard Glen Coe. The forbidding landscape was so intense that she was relieved to see another couple at the Three Sisters viewpoint.
Scotland offered stories: Lord Strathcona planting spruce and redwood trees in Glen Coe for his Canadian wife, and Queen Victoria taking the first fly-and-flop holiday at Blair Castle in 1844. The 6th Duke of Atholl hosted her, promising security with his private army and moving out of his castle for the royal stay. This visit began a royal love affair with Scotland, leading to the purchase of Balmoral in 1852.
After 13 days and 1,600 miles, Thorpe returned home. Her husband took the same photo of her perched on the car. The trip was an adventure to lands unknown on the island she calls home.
