When I stumbled upon an article online promising to unveil "the happiest place to live", I must admit the destination mentioned took me somewhat by surprise. However, after spending four days there, it became completely understandable. There were stunning beaches, charming coastal towns and villages boasting independent shops and eateries, picture-perfect accommodation, and all of it enveloped by gorgeous countryside.
The happiest location is determined by surveying thousands of residents about their sentiments towards their home, considering not merely the property itself but the wider locality, the community spirit and access to essential amenities. In 2025, Anglesey claimed the top spot in Wales. Typically, that's as far from my home in Cardiff as one can travel while remaining in Wales, and the notoriously inadequate transport links between north and south Wales mean the journey is quite the expedition.
It's a 4.5-hour drive from the Welsh capital to the southern tip of the island. I could reach Malaga on Spain's southern coastline two hours faster. Yet the journey would be nowhere near as breathtaking. Nor would the destination. I felt genuinely heartbroken when the time to leave arrived and would have gladly remained there for another two weeks. Truth be told, I'd relocate there given the opportunity.
Is Anglesey worth visiting?
Hardly anyone I spoke to in south Wales before making my way north had ever been to Anglesey. I had briefly set foot there on a couple of occasions myself — once on a fleeting day trip and once to board a ferry from Holyhead to Dublin. South Walians likely know less about Anglesey than the Scousers and Mancunians of north-west England do.
Having now spent a mere half-week there, I can say with absolute certainty that it is most definitely worth a visit. The island's entire coastline is officially an area of outstanding natural beauty, boasting vast sandy beaches and rugged coves scattered along its uninterrupted 125-mile coastal path.
Anglesey has an unbroken 125-mile coastal path. There are castles, historic towns, exceptional restaurants and it remains one of very few places in the UK where red squirrels can still be spotted in their natural habitat.
With fewer than 70,000 residents spread across 276 square miles — that's 0.7 people per football pitch-sized plot of land, compared to 19 in Cardiff — you can discover everything it has to offer in peace and quiet. Navigating its tranquil country lanes is a pleasure and parts of the island can also be explored by rail. It's also a stronghold for the Welsh language — 62% of the population speaks Welsh, according to the Welsh Government, compared to 27% in Wales as a whole. In cafes, pubs and tourist attractions, staff converse with one another in Welsh (and not to talk about English people behind their backs).
Things to do
Anglesey's principal draw is its breathtaking landscape, whether that involves hiking through its countryside, wandering its beaches and coastline or swimming, kite-surfing or kayaking across its bays. Among the most remarkable destinations to explore are:
- Newborough forest and Traeth Llanddwyn: A location now celebrated worldwide for its sweeping beach and picturesque lighthouse perched upon a rocky outcrop. The Corsican pine trees comprising Newborough Forest appear as though they have stood for centuries, yet were actually planted between 1947 and 1965 to supply timber and to stabilise the shifting sand dunes of Newborough Warren, "one of the largest and finest dune systems in Britain". The dunes subsequently open onto the expansive beach and Ynys Llanddwyn island. While parking is abundant, visitors should note this location has become extraordinarily popular, especially amongst the social media generation, and you might discover (as occurred during my initial visit) that the sole road leading to it from the village of Niwbwrch (Newborough) a couple of miles away is physically sealed off by council workers and bollards when visitor numbers become excessive. The site's popularity presents a genuine concern for local residents, so courtesy is essential. That said, once you reach the beach, it's sufficiently spacious to accommodate everyone comfortably.
- Beaumaris: This charming, historic town's principal draw is its castle, occasionally referred to as "the greatest castle never built" due to its incomplete state. It represented the final fortress in the so-called "ring of iron" established by Edward I in Wales and "perhaps his masterpiece" according to Cadw, the Welsh Government's historic environment service. The "fortress of immense size and near-perfect symmetry" boasts four concentric rings of formidable defences, including a water-filled moat complete with its very own dock. It is a breathtaking place to explore, particularly as visitors can tour the interior chapel and stroll along its battlements. Just outside the castle walls, you will also discover the "Taylor Swift shop" (note the blue plaque declaring the singer "wasn't born here" - not that that's stopped them creating a shrine to her within). A handful of independent retailers and several worthy pubs, among them The Bull's Head and Castle Court Hotel, are also well worth a visit.
- Beaches: No matter where you find yourself on the island, a spectacular beach is never far away. The coastal village of Rhosneigr boasts vast, sweeping sands that have become a premier destination for windsurfing, kitesurfing and surfing enthusiasts. Traeth Mawr, situated near Aberffraw, is a tranquil, dune-fringed beach forming one of the most extensive examples of mobile dune habitat anywhere in the UK. Several further options await, including the shores at Trearddur Bay and Benllech, both of which prove enormously popular with families and are nestled alongside charming seaside villages.
- Menai Bridge: Serving as the gateway to the island, this charming town sits at one end of Thomas Telford's legendary bridge of the same name. It boasts a delightful array of shops, including an antiques store tucked away down an alleyway between the high street and car park, alongside a bookshop and the superb Dylan's deli. A fine selection of pubs and restaurants caters for every palate, ranging from the intimate Michelin-starred Sosban and Old Butchers to the enormously popular Dylan's restaurant, where vast floor-to-ceiling windows afford stunning views across the Menai Strait and the mainland as you dine.
- LlanfairPG: No trip to Anglesey would be complete without a stop at the village boasting the longest place name in Europe (and the second longest on the planet). While there may not be a great deal else to explore, the visit is absolutely worthwhile for the sign alone, particularly the one adorning the village's charming railway station.
- Nearby: Should you feel you've exhausted everything Anglesey has to offer, there are some wonderful destinations just across the water on the Welsh mainland. Caernarfon is a vibrant coastal town home to another of Edward I's remarkable castles, while a brief drive southwards will bring you to the extraordinary Zip World Llechwedd, where visitors can bounce on netting suspended within a vast underground cavern at Bounce Below, or hurtle along the Titan zip line high above the slate-scattered hillsides and crumbling stone relics from an era when north Wales stood at the heart of the global slate industry.
Places to eat
- Dylan's Menai Bridge ranks amongst the finest and most sought-after dining destinations on the island. Its expansive glass frontage offers sweeping views across the Menai Strait, while its extensive menu boasts local seafood, burgers and pizza. For breakfast or brunch, Clustia Mul in Menai Bridge is a charming spot.
- The White Eagle is an enormously popular pub and restaurant situated near Rhoscolyn, reportedly a firm favourite of Prince William and Kate during their time on the island while William was serving with the RAF. The accessible menu offers an impressive range, from cod loin or roast peach and burrata salad to classic burgers and fish pie.
- The Sea Shanty Cafe: A distinctive dining experience that would not look out of place in New England, this was a personal highlight during my time on the island. It is a classic, bustling beachfront diner adorned with shell-covered ceilings, glass containers filled with sand gathered from dozens of beaches across the UK, and nautical memorabilia at every turn. The menu features dishes such as seafood chowder and burgers.
- Red Squirrel Tapas: A firm favourite with my mother on her visit. Self-described as "quirky", it began life as a coffee and hot chocolate vendor in the village of Niwbwrch but has spent the last couple of years serving tapas from 5-9pm, having launched in 2023 and been taken aback by its overwhelming popularity.
- Y Marram: First launched in 2011 as The Marram Grass by two brothers in a disused chicken shed on a caravan park belonging to their parents, it swiftly earned a reputation as one of the finest dining destinations in Wales before shutting its doors during the Covid-19 pandemic. Now reborn as Y Marram, it offers food throughout the day, ranging from porridge or a full Welsh breakfast in the morning through to sophisticated tasting menus come evening.
- Sosban and the Old Butchers: This tiny restaurant in Menai Bridge accommodates only a handful of diners and ranks among the select few establishments in Wales to hold a Michelin star, an accolade it has maintained for a number of years. There is no menu. Instead, they "create a series of dishes using the best locally sourced produce available to us on the day providing a unique culinary journey not found anywhere else".
Places to stay
Anglesey boasts a wealth of accommodation options, but one particular gem stands out above the rest. The Barn at Cae Bach comprises two cottages crafted from the remnants of old farm barns, lovingly restored by the current owner, who resides in the charming farmhouse nearby. The two-bedroom cottage was not only delightful, snug and welcoming inside, but also featured birds nesting above the back door, was enveloped by fields teeming with frolicking rabbits, and offered sweeping views of the imposing dark silhouette of Wales' loftiest peak, Yr Wyddfa, on the horizon. Additional cottages are available through Sykes Holiday Cottages, while grander accommodation options include the magnificent Chateau Rhianfa, a grade II*-listed former mansion built in French gothic style.
The journey to Anglesey
"It's not the destination," goes the famous saying. "It's the journey." While those words may not have been inspired by the roads linking Cardiff and Anglesey, they could scarcely be more fitting. From the moment you reach the Brecon Beacons, the route unfolds as a breathtaking spectacle that never relents — whether you're meandering through charming market towns such as Rhayader and Machynlleth, crossing the sweeping hilltops of the Cambrian Mountains, passing through picturesque settlements like Betws-y-Coed that evoke the grandeur of the Swiss Alps, or gazing in sheer wonder at the awe-inspiring scale of Eryri's towering peaks.
