Andy Burnham's All-Black Style: A Calculated Political Statement Beyond Westminster
In a striking departure from the traditional Westminster uniform of suits and ties, Greater Manchester Mayor Andy Burnham has cultivated a distinctive, understated style centred on all-black workwear. This sartorial shift is far from accidental; according to fashion experts and political analysts, it represents a carefully calculated statement that aligns with his political positioning as an outsider to London's political establishment.
The Evolution from Westminster to Manchester
Since moving away from parliamentary politics to become the first metro mayor of Greater Manchester, Burnham has deliberately eschewed the formal attire of his former colleagues. Where once he might have worn Armani suits purchased in Boxing Day sales, he now prefers black bomber jackets, black V-neck jumpers worn without shirts underneath, black blazers, and simple black T-shirts. The occasional workwear jacket completes his signature look, which he recently showcased at the launch of a Class Ceiling report at Manchester's Whitworth gallery.
This transformation is deeply symbolic, according to Andrew Groves, professor of fashion design and director of the Westminster Menswear Archive. He describes Burnham's "all-black workwear look" as being "as calculated as any Westminster suit, just aimed at a different audience." The casualness is intentionally loaded with meaning, rejecting parliamentary polish while signalling Mancunian proximity: practical, ordinary, and deliberately outside London's political dress codes.
Fashion as Political Communication
Jonathan Tonge, a professor of politics at the University of Liverpool, observes that Burnham's fashion choices directly mirror his political stance: mildly left of centre, moderately radical, and nonconformist. While Burnham will wear formal suits when necessary, his day-to-day style communicates a clear message: "I'm Andy Burnham, I'm different from Westminster, and my fashions are different from Westminster."
This stylistic independence is a byproduct of his unique position. As metro mayor, Burnham has been able to define his role on his own terms, including setting his own fashion rules. Tonge notes that part of this has been to declare that "the old conventions don't apply" and to embrace smart-casual attire in his own distinctive way.
Mancunian Roots and Musical Influences
Burnham's style represents what he frequently calls "the Manchester way," drawing more inspiration from his Mancunian musical heroes than from political figures. Tonge describes his aesthetic as "the Smiths meets Britpop," connecting it to Manchester's rich cultural heritage rather than Westminster's political traditions.
Interestingly, Burnham's style bears some resemblance to that of Labour leader Keir Starmer, who also favours dark shirts and Britpop-adjacent styles like Stone Island and Harrington jackets. However, Tonge emphasises that Starmer's occasional departures from formal wear don't reach "a Burnham level in terms of non-conformity." Burnham's commitment to his distinctive look remains more consistent and pronounced.
A Style That May Not Return South
Despite being blocked by Labour from returning as an MP, Burnham remains a significant figure in northern politics. In a 2022 interview, he reflected on his Westminster era, saying: "I remember, when I left, slowly realising: 'I don't have to do this any more... it was an evolution and I'm not going back.'"
This statement suggests that even if Burnham eventually returns to Westminster politics, his style may not follow him south. His all-black workwear has become an integral part of his political identity, representing his distance from London's establishment and his commitment to representing Greater Manchester on his own terms. The style serves as a constant visual reminder that he operates by different rules in a different political landscape.
