Keir Starmer's Surprising Culinary Stardom in China
In the United Kingdom, Prime Minister Keir Starmer struggles with widespread disapproval, but a recent family trip to China revealed a starkly different narrative. Martin Rowson, a cartoonist and author, discovered that Starmer has become an unexpected food icon in the Asian nation, with restaurants across China capitalising on his visit by creating dedicated menus in his honour.
The Birth of the 'Starmer Menu' Phenomenon
During Starmer's diplomatic mission to China in January 2026, aimed at improving Anglo-Chinese relations after years of Conservative-led tensions, he dined at Yi Zuo Yi Wang, a popular Yunnan restaurant in Beijing's Chaoyang district. This area is known for its foreign embassies, media outlets, and vibrant cultural scenes. The prime minister's choice to eat with chopsticks, express gratitude in Chinese, and order the same dishes repeatedly resonated deeply with locals, sparking a culinary trend.
The restaurant, whose name translates to "In and Out," has since been inundated with bookings, attributing its success to the "Starmer Dividend." Patrons, including business professionals, diplomats, and hipsters, flock to experience the same meal, which features mushroom-based dishes. Notably, some reports highlighted the use of hallucinogenic mushrooms in certain recipes, adding to the intrigue. The interior decor, with exposed brickwork and potted plants, echoes a New Labour aesthetic, further enhancing the appeal.
National Spread of Starmer-Inspired Dining
This fascination extends beyond Beijing. In Yunnan province, near the borders with Myanmar and Laos, restaurants in cities like Dali and Kunming have adopted similar menus. For instance, Fuzhao Zhan restaurant in Kunming promotes "The Same Style as the Prime Minister" menu, complete with a photo of Starmer giving a thumbs-up gesture. Staff at these establishments praised Starmer as "kind, just like us," reflecting a perception of him as a modest, orderly figure aligned with Chinese values of calm and obedience.
The menu items, such as stewed rice with mushrooms in a copper pot, have become sought-after, though some diners found them reminiscent of takeaway fried rice. Despite this, the overall experience is described as delicious, with options like mushroom margaritas adding a twist to traditional Yunnan cuisine.
Contrasting Perceptions: UK Discontent vs. Chinese Adulation
Back in the UK, Starmer is often criticised for his technocratic approach and perceived lack of political finesse, with many viewing his leadership as underwhelming since the 2024 election. However, in China, he is celebrated for his diplomatic gestures and perceived humility. The country's clean, efficient, and polite environment, coupled with advancements in electric vehicles and infrastructure, stands in stark contrast to the UK's struggles with privatisation and public service decline.
Interestingly, a translation quirk on a sign in Kunming rendered Starmer's name as "British Prime Minister Star Beast," adding a humorous layer to his overseas fame. While this adulation may offer little solace domestically, it underscores the universal allure of the exotic and the potential for cross-cultural connections.
Ultimately, Starmer's Chinese culinary fame highlights broader themes of global diplomacy and cultural exchange, even as it contrasts sharply with his domestic challenges.
