A good tomato sauce is a fundamental skill for any cook, versatile, and cost-effective compared to ready-made versions. Marcella Hazan, in The Essentials of Classic Italian Cooking, emphasises that no other preparation delivers the satisfactions of Italian cooking like a competently executed tomato sauce. The goal is a sauce good enough to need no further adornment—no parmesan, minced beef, or spinach and ricotta—just simple pasta al pomodoro.
Choosing the right tomatoes is crucial. In the UK, finding ripe, flavoursome tomatoes can be challenging, but farmers' markets and better supermarkets offer improved options. Hazan recommends fresh, fully ripened plum tomatoes, but if none are satisfactory, tinned Italian plum tomatoes are superior. Angela Hartnett agrees, noting that canned tomatoes often yield better results outside the Mediterranean. She adds tomato puree and a pinch of sugar to balance acidity, though some chefs prefer a dash of vinegar for sharpness.
Giorgio Locatelli champions Cuore di Bue tomatoes for their excellent flavour, but advises using tinned fruit if fresh ones are bland. Preparation methods vary: Hazan blanches and skins tomatoes, while Anna del Conte sieves after cooking for a smooth sauce. For a chunkier texture, blanching is preferred. Onions are a common base, with Rose Gray and Ruth Rogers using red onions, though yellow onions are more versatile. Garlic is also widely used, debunking the myth that Italian cooks avoid combining them.
Herbs play a key role: Hartnett uses rosemary, Locatelli and Gray and Rogers opt for basil, and del Conte includes parsley, sage, and thyme. Basil is often the best match, infusing flavour when added during cooking. Del Conte also simmers celery and carrot in the sauce for a northern Italian style, akin to a savoury ragu. Ultimately, the perfect tomato sauce balances acidity, sweetness, and texture, with ingredients tailored to personal taste.
