A Culinary Revelation: From Persian Inspiration to Modern Plates
The story behind this vibrant dish begins with an unexpected journey. Australian cheesemaker Richard Thomas experienced a culinary revelation during a trip to Iran in the 1970s. A chance breakfast of fresh labneh with warm lavash inspired him to create what we now know as Persian fetta, a shapeshifting cheese that has become a staple in kitchens worldwide.
This cheese, distinct from its Greek counterpart with an extra 't' in its name, proved its versatility during the Covid lockdowns. With cafe culture halted, producers found new avenues, supplying independent grocers and allowing home cooks, including Guardian Australia columnist Alice Zaslavsky, to experiment.
Crafting the Perfect Papula
At the heart of this recipe is papula, a creamy Balkan white bean dip that Zaslavsky first discovered via chef Olia Hercules. The dish transforms this traditional base into something surprisingly substantial.
The process is straightforward but yields impressive results. You will need:
- Four to six medium red peppers
- 400g of cooked and drained butter beans (or any tinned white bean)
- A jar of marinated fetta or 200g of soft Danish-style feta
- Four garlic cloves, olive oil, sherry vinegar, and flaky sea salt
The method involves roasting the peppers with garlic cloves tucked underneath at 220C (200C fan)/425F/gas 7 for 35-40 minutes. This technique infuses the peppers with flavour and creates buttery-soft garlic. The papula is then made by blitzing the beans, vinegar, oil, and salt, before adding the feta and roasted garlic to create a smooth, whipped dip.
Assembling a Show-Stopping Dish
Once the peppers are blistered and have been allowed to steam and relax, their skins are slipped off and the flesh is sliced into glossy, crimson slivers. The final presentation is where the dish truly shines.
Scoop the whipped papula onto a large platter, creating undulating waves. Arrange the silky pepper strips on top and dress with the savoury tray juices. The dish is finished with a sprinkle of parsley, crumbled feta, a dusting of paprika, a handful of roasted almonds, and a final drizzle of olive oil.
Serve it with warm soft bread like lavash, pide, or pitta for a decadent brunch, lunch, or light dinner that is packed with beany, plant-forward protein. This recipe, from Zaslavsky's book Salad for Days, is a testament to how simple ingredients can be elevated into a truly spectacular meal.
