Prominent food critic Giles Coren has sparked controversy by claiming standard health and safety regulations "don't really apply" to elite Michelin-starred restaurants and require modernisation. His comments follow the revelation that the two-Michelin-starred Ynyshir Restaurant and Rooms in Wales received a lowly one-out-of-five food hygiene rating from inspectors.
A Luxury Establishment's Low Hygiene Score
The luxury establishment, located near Machynlleth in Ceredigion, charges guests almost £500 per head and is described by the Michelin Guide as offering a "truly unique experience." However, during a visit in November 2025, inspectors from the Food Standards Agency (FSA) found that "major improvement" was necessary in the management of food safety. The cleanliness and condition of the facilities and building also required improvement.
Speaking on BBC Radio 4's World at One programme, Coren, who dined at Ynyshir in 2022, defended the restaurant. He described a dramatic culinary theatre far removed from conventional kitchens. "He is cooking with fire... He stands there in his leather apron and it's roaring like fireworks. You're also, conversely, served quite a lot of raw food," Coren said, referencing chef Gareth Ward's use of Japanese techniques.
A Clash of Standards and Perceptions
The columnist for The Times argued that the existing framework is ill-suited for such avant-garde cuisine. "The normal health and safety things, I think it's fair enough, don't really apply," he stated. "It's a different sort of world... I can see that [an inspector] would lose his mind." Coren suggested the rules "should probably be modernised" to account for these high-end, experimental environments.
This viewpoint was swiftly challenged by food safety experts. Una Kane, chairwoman of the food advisory panel at the Chartered Institute of Environmental Health, expressed disappointment. "No food business should see itself as above the law," she stressed, adding she was "appalled" by the suggestion that meeting legal standards could be optional. Kane emphasised that many restaurants successfully deliver unique experiences while maintaining exemplary hygiene, calling it "insulting" to imply otherwise.
Chef's Defence and Industry Implications
Ynyshir's chef patron, Gareth Ward, remained defiant. He insisted he was "not embarrassed" by the rating and claimed his restaurant operates "at the highest standard in the world." Speaking to the BBC, Ward said, "My standards never drop below 100 per cent. I’m not at all ashamed, but I am disappointed." He framed the issue as a challenge faced by innovators who "think outside the box."
The debate highlights a growing tension between culinary innovation and regulatory compliance. While the FSA's system is designed to protect public health uniformly, critics like Coren question whether a one-size-fits-all approach is appropriate for the extreme high-end of the restaurant industry, where processes and risks can differ markedly from a typical high-street kitchen.
